Now that I have visited Azerbaijan, and where I do not intend to return in the near future, I can finally publish a report on my trip to Armenia and Nagorno-Karabakh.
As is known, the territory of Nagorno-Karabakh is the subject of an unresolved dispute between Azerbaijan, where it is located, and its ethnic Armenian majority, which is supported by neighboring Armenia.
Armenian-Azerbaijani clashes began in Nagorno-Karabakh back in the 20th century. After the collapse of the Russian Empire, this region became part of the Azerbaijan Democratic Republic, which caused resistance Armenian population. In July 1918, Karabakh was declared an independent administrative unit with its own government. Two years later, Azerbaijani troops crushed the Armenian resistance, and Karabakh became part of Azerbaijan SSR, formally having the right to self-determination.
With the collapse of the Soviet Union, at the end of 1991, Nagorno-Karabakh declared itself an independent republic with its capital Stepanakart. Azerbaijan recognized this act as illegal and abolished the autonomy of Karabakh. Following this, the Karabakh war began, during which regular Armenian units completely or partially captured seven regions that Azerbaijan considered its own.
During the fighting, between 20 and 30 thousand people died. Ethnic Azerbaijanis, who made up about a quarter of the region's population before the war, fled Karabakh and Armenia, and ethnic Armenians were forced to flee from Azerbaijan. In total, more than a million people fled their homes.
If you look at google maps(and others), then Nagorno-Karabakh is indeed the territory of Azerbaijan. However, de facto this is not the case; you can enter the Republic only from the Armenian side. From the point of view of Azerbaijanis, such movement is an illegal crossing State border, and since after Karabakh I was going to Azerbaijan, I shouldn’t have advertised my visit to NKR. And although marks about visiting Karabakh are not placed in the passport, Azerbaijani special services track mainly through the Internet who illegally enters Karabakh, and although this usually concerns famous people, after which they are prohibited from entering the country, I didn’t want to risk it, so I decided to publish the report, just in case, after the trip to Azerbaijan.
So, 4 days of the March holidays of 2016 were approaching. I wanted to fly somewhere out of the Russian spring grey, but within a few hours of summer the weather was not much better than in Moscow, with temperatures just above zero and rain. Only in Transcaucasia was it relatively warm and sunny. It was decided to fly to Armenia. But since I had previously traveled the length and breadth of the country itself, the choice fell on Nagorno-Karabakh.
Having arrived in Yerevan, I rented a car from Sixt right at the airport. Power of attorney is issued for Armenia and Nagorno-Karabakh by default. There are not many hotels in Armenia outside of Yerevan, so I spent the night in the capital and hit the road early in the morning.
The official route to the capital of Karabakh - Stepanakert (google automatically changes the name to the Azerbaijani Khankendi), which foreign citizens can use, passes through Vayk - Goris (gray line on the map), but they also need to return back. Much more picturesque (from my point of view) lies through the Zod Pass, east of Lake Sevan. Previously, this route was closed to foreigners; they could be turned away at the border. In addition, in winter it can be closed due to snow drifts (and during my trip it was the very beginning of spring). A few years ago I had a hard time driving through here. famous traveler puerrtto, but then it was autumn, and now it’s early spring. There was no exact information about the condition of the road on the Internet, but I still decided to take a chance and drove through the Zod Pass.
A relatively good asphalt road leads to the border. At the same time you can admire the views of Sevan. Who can guess what the cars are doing in the lake?) 
Here's the answer, though: 
And this is the entrance to Nagorno-Karabakh: 
Crossing the border between Armenia and Azerbaijan). The road actually goes a little to the side, or the navigator shows it incorrectly. 
Of course, it is impossible to cross the border between Armenia and Azerbaijan, unless you know how to get around minefields and dodge snipers, but on official international maps Nagorno-Karabakh is shown as Azerbaijan.
And then the beauty of Nagorno-Karabakh and endless serpentines begin. 
We were lucky with the weather, the sun dried the road, and we can drive through without any problems. A few days ago, a four-wheel drive would have clearly been needed here, and possibly a tractor. 
In winter, there are meter-long snowdrifts here, perhaps clearing the road, but after a snowfall it’s obviously better not to go here. 
My car 
Those rare tourists who traveled here 5-10 years ago wrote about large quantities damaged military equipment at the roadsides. Now they have made improvised monuments of modern history out of it. 
However, there are also authentic specimens. The Azerbaijani border is very close; one must think that there were very fierce battles here 
In one place the road is literally sandwiched between rocks. Very beautiful and unusual. 
Traffic is very small, there are also no gas stations, be sure to have a full tank of gasoline after Vardenis - the last large city Armenia. Occasionally you come across small villages. It is obvious that they live very poorly. 
The road through the Zod Pass is also interesting because it allows you to visit one of the most inaccessible monasteries in Armenia and Karabakh - Dadivank. 
Located in very picturesque place. There are basically no tourists here. Of course, from the capital of Karabakh, Stepanakert, it’s 130 kilometers on dead roads, from Yerevan - 2.5 times longer. 
Sargsan reservoir. The views are amazing. Hostile Azerbaijan is just around the corner. Previously, it provided water to several Azerbaijani regions, but now it is under the control of the NKR and, of course, does not share water 
A small section of good road 
Lambs) 
And these are the roads for the most part throughout Karabakh: 
And this is the infamous landmark of Karabakh, the ghost town of Agdam. A city that was mostly populated by Azerbaijanis before the war. After the war, they were all kicked out, and the houses began to be dismantled for building materials. Looks like he's in the city now military unit and several Armenian residents living in the roughly reconstructed ruins. Officially, entry into the city is prohibited due to the mentioned military unit, there is a checkpoint at the entrance, but since I was traveling from the other side of Stepanakert, where tourists usually do not go, I got into the city freely, and on the way out no one was interested in me. 
Only the mosque has more or less survived 
You can even climb the minaret, although the sight is very sad. On the horizon is the front line and Azerbaijan 
I'm going further to Stepanakert. Previously, the whole of Karabakh was covered with such posters. I only got one 
Car with license plates of the Azerbaijan SSR. Sometimes it seems like time has stopped here 
The landscapes, of course, are inferior to Tuscan ones, but still very beautiful 
Stopped for the night in Stepanakert. A modern city that has completely recovered from the war. One might say, an island of civilization, with modern hotels, restaurants, and even an airport, although not operational. In the morning I registered at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Registration seems to be mandatory for foreigners, it works every day (on weekends the person on duty registers). But as it turned out later, it was in vain, I left through an unofficial checkpoint, no one asked about registration.
Day 2. 
The next morning I went to another Karabakh landmark - the Gandzasar Monastery. 
along the way, visiting the village of Vank, famous for that businessman Levon Hayrapetyan was born there, who, having become rich, decided to invest a lot of money in his homeland, repairing roads and building a rather interesting hotel in the shape of a ship 
Perhaps there are more tourists here during the season, but now, in early March, it was completely empty. Now the businessman is under arrest in Moscow, it is possible that the village will soon fall into decay again. 
And this is what the wall in the center of the village looks like: 
I return to Stepanakert and drive towards Armenia. But I don’t want to return to Armenia so quickly yet, so having almost reached the border, I turn onto a remote road to Minjavan - the village, a former railway junction, is located on the border with Iran. 
The road is relatively good at first, but then quickly changes to terrible. 
Traffic is zero. If your car breaks down or a tire bursts in numerous potholes, no one will help. The area is uninhabited and unused. There are almost no settlements. Those that exist were inhabited by Azerbaijanis, and were completely destroyed 
I just want to ask the question, why did they fight, and why did so many people die on both sides? 
Destroyed Azerbaijani cemetery 
I reach the former Minjnavan junction station. Everything is destroyed; several families literally manage to survive among the ruins. There is no trace left of the station. 
Near the Iranian border. The mountains in the photo are already Iranian territory. 
I am leaving Nagorno-Karabakh for Armenia along a road under construction, laid along the embankment of the former Minjnavan-Kapan railway. 
Formally, you can’t cross the border here, but there’s no one at the border itself, and you can’t see much of a difference, except that cellular communications started working again in Armenia, and I was bombarded with a ton of missed calls and text messages over these 2 days.
I spend the night in the city of Kapan. Kapan is a vivid illustration of how you can get fucked up most beautiful place wretched city. 
Day 3.4 
Then I went to the most Southern City Armenia - Meghri. There are two roads leading there through the pass, both fantastically beautiful. 
Iranian trucks come across. 
There is a lot of snow on the pass and it is terribly cold. Despite the cold, it feels like bright sun, repeatedly reflected from the snow-capped mountains, burns the skin. 
...
The southernmost city of Armenia (and at the same time the most distant from Yerevan) - Meghri - is unremarkable. 
The engineering structures of the former Baku-Nakhichevan-Yerevan railway, which ran right along the Iranian border, are very interesting. Alas, the train will most likely never run here now. 
How much money and effort was spent on anti-collapse galleries that no one needed? 
barbed wire is visible on the left, and Iran behind it 
...
Former Meghri station on the Iranian border. During the Soviet era, there was the strictest border zone. 
All that remains of the rolling stock, which, apparently, did not have time to be removed 
I return back by another road, through Tsav. It just opened after winter, zero traffic. 
The pass is full of snow 
Again the city of Kapan. Beautiful from a distance, but in reality it is ruined and depressed 
On the way to Yerevan I stopped by to see the Tatev Monastery. The navigator brought me to a short road with zero traffic, which, apparently, had just thawed after a winter on which I almost got stuck 
The monastery is definitely beautiful 
Watchtower nearby 
Road Tatev - Yeghegnadzor 
Soviet technology pleases the eye 
Since there was time left, I decided to lengthen the path through the Selim Pass and turned in Yeghegnadzor towards Sevan. There are meter-long snowdrifts on the pass, spring will not come here very soon, but I passed without any problems. 
By the evening of the 4th day I reached Yerevan. Had dinner at the tavern of the same name 
(located on Teryan Street, highly recommend, delicious and very inexpensive) and flew to Moscow. The journey was slightly extreme, but very interesting and educational. Thank you for your attention.
Capital: Stepanakert
Big cities: Martakert, Hadrut
Official language: Armenian
Currency unit: dram
Population: 152 000
Ethnic composition: Armenians, Russians, Greeks
Natural resources: gold, silver, lead, zinc, perlite, limestone
Territory: 11 thousand sq. km.
Average altitude above sea level: 1,900 meters
Neighboring countries: Armenia, Iran, Azerbaijan
ARTICLE 142 of the NKR Constitution:
"Until integrity is restored state territory of the Nagorno-Karabakh Republic and clarification of the boundaries, public power is exercised in the territory actually under the jurisdiction of the Nagorno-Karabakh Republic.”
Nagorno-Karabakh Republic (NKR):
history and modernity
Nagorno-Karabakh Republic (NKR)- a state formed during the collapse of the USSR on the basis of the Nagorno-Karabakh Autonomous Region (NKAO) - a national-state formation in the state structure of the USSR, and the Armenian-populated Shahumyan region. The capital is the city of Stepanakert.
NKR was proclaimed September 2, 1991 in accordance with fundamental rules of international law.
Nagorno-Karabakh (Armenian self-name - Artsakh), located in the northeast of the Armenian Highlands, from ancient times was one of the provinces of historical Armenia, the northeastern border of which, according to all ancient sources, was the Kura. The natural and climatic conditions of the mountainous region are determined by its favorable geographical location. In the ancient Armenian state of Urartu (VIII-V BC) Artsakh is mentioned under the name Urtekhe-Urtekhini. In the writings of Strabo, Pliny the Elder, Claudius Ptolemy, Plutarch, Dio Cassius and other authors it was indicated that the Kura was the border of Armenia with neighboring Albania (Aluanq) - an ancient state that was a conglomerate of multilingual Caucasian mountain tribes.
After the division of Armenia between Byzantium and Persia (387), the territory of Eastern Transcaucasia (including Artsakh) passed to Persia, which, however, did not affect the ethnic borders in the region until the late Middle Ages: the right bank of the Kura River, together with Artsakh (Karabakh), remains Armenian-populated. And only in the middle of the 18th century northern regions Karabakh began the penetration of Turkic nomadic tribes, which marked the beginning of many years of wars with the Armenian principalities. The melicates (principalities) of Nagorno-Karabakh, governed by hereditary appanage princes - meliks, managed to maintain actual sovereignty, including their own squads, princely squads, etc. Having been forced for centuries to repel the invasions of the troops of the Ottoman Empire, the raids of nomadic tribes and detachments of numerous and often hostile neighboring khans, and even the troops of the shahs themselves, the melikdoms of Artsakh sought to free themselves from heterodox power. For this purpose, in the 17th-18th centuries, the Karabakh meliks corresponded with Russian tsars, including the emperors Peter I, Catherine II and Paul I.
In 1805, the territory of historical Artsakh, formally called the Karabakh Khanate, together with vast areas of Eastern Transcaucasia, “forever and ever” passed to the Russian Empire, which was secured by the Gulistan (1813) and Turkmenchay (1828) treaties between Russia and Persia.
The period has begun peaceful life, generally lasting until 1917. After the collapse of the Russian Empire, in the process of forming states in the Caucasus, Nagorno-Karabakh in 1918-1920. turned into the arena of a brutal war between the Republic of Armenia, which had restored its independence, and the newly created Azerbaijan Democratic Republic under the conditions of Turkish intervention, which, from the moment of its formation, made territorial claims to significant Armenian territories in Transcaucasia.
Regular Turkish troops and Azerbaijani armed forces, taking advantage of the turmoil caused by the World War and the collapse of the Russian Empire, in continuation of the Armenian genocide in Turkey in 1915, in 1918–1920. destroyed hundreds of Armenian villages, massacred Armenians in Baku and Ganja. And only in Nagorno-Karabakh did these formations encounter serious armed resistance organized by the National Council of NK, although Shusha, the capital of the region, was burned and looted on March 23, 1920, and the Armenian population of the city was destroyed.
It was then that the international community found it necessary to intervene in the conflict, which was becoming increasingly tragic. On December 1, 1920, based on the report of its third subcommittee, the Fifth Committee of the League of Nations, reacting to the territorial claims of Azerbaijan and mass anti-Armenian pogroms, unanimously opposed the admission of the Azerbaijan Democratic Republic to the League of Nations. At the same time, the League of Nations, before the final settlement of the conflict, recognized Nagorno-Karabakh as a disputed territory, which was agreed upon by all parties involved in the conflict, including Azerbaijan. Thus, during the period of its emergence in 1918-20. Of the Azerbaijan Democratic Republic, its sovereignty did not extend to Nagorno-Karabakh (as well as to Nakhichevan).
The establishment of Soviet power in Transcaucasia was accompanied by the establishment of new political orders. After the proclamation in 1920. Soviet Azerbaijan, Russian troops, until a peaceful resolution of the issue, according to the Treaty between Soviet Russia and the Republic of Armenia, temporarily occupied Nagorno-Karabakh.
However, immediately after the establishment of Soviet power in Armenia, the Revolutionary Committee (revolutionary committee - the main body of power of the Bolsheviks at that time) of Azerbaijan declared recognition of the “disputed territories” - Nagorno-Karabakh, Zangezur and Nakhichevan - as integral parts of Armenia. At the time of the declaration of renunciation of claims to Nagorno-Karabakh, Zangezur and Nakhichevan, these territories were not included in Republic of Azerbaijan.
Based on the refusal of Soviet Azerbaijan to claim the “disputed territories” and on the basis of an agreement between the governments of Armenia and Azerbaijan, Armenia in June 1921. declared Nagorno-Karabakh its integral part. The text of the decree of the Armenian government was published in the press both in Armenia and Azerbaijan (“Baku Worker” (organ of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of Azerbaijan), June 22, 1921). Thus, an act of assignment took place, which turned out to be the last legal act on Nagorno-Karabakh in the international legal sense during the communist regime in Transcaucasia.
The act of cession was welcomed by both the international community and Russia, which is recorded in the resolution of the Assembly of the League of Nations (18.12.1920), in the Note-Note of the Secretary General of the League of Nations to the member states of the League of Nations (4.3.1921) and in Annual report of the People's Commissariat (Ministry) of Foreign Affairs of the RSFSR for 1920–1921. the highest authority - the XI Congress of Soviets.
Soon, however, the Bolshevik leadership of Russia, in the context of the policy of promoting the “world communist revolution”, in which Turkey was assigned the role of “the torch of revolution in the East,” changes its attitude towards ethnically related Azerbaijan and the problem of “disputed” territories, including Nagorny Karabakh.
The leadership of Azerbaijan, on instructions from Moscow, is renewing its claims to Nagorno-Karabakh. The Plenum of the Caucasian Bureau of the RCP(b), neglecting the decision of the League of Nations and rejecting the plebiscite as a democratic mechanism for establishing borders between Armenia and Azerbaijan, in 1921, under the direct pressure of Stalin and contrary to the cession act that took place, with procedural violations, decided to secede Nagorno-Karabakh from Armenia with the condition the formation of national autonomy with broad rights in these Armenian territories as part of the Azerbaijan SSR.
Azerbaijan delayed in every possible way the fulfillment of the demand for autonomy for Nagorno-Karabakh. But after a two-year armed struggle of the Karabakh people and at the insistence of the RCP (b) in 1923. a small part was granted the status of an autonomous region - one of the constitutional forms of national-state formation in the government of the USSR. Moreover, Nagorno-Karabakh, apparently with a long view, was fragmented - autonomy was formed on one part, and the rest was dissolved in the administrative regions of Soviet Azerbaijan, and in such a way as to eliminate the physical and geographical connection between the Armenian autonomy and Armenia.
Thus, a significant part of the territory recognized by the League of Nations as disputed was directly annexed, and most of Nagorno-Karabakh (Gulistan, Kelbajar, Karakhat (Dashkesan), Lachin, Shamkhor, etc.) remained outside the autonomy. Thus, the Karabakh problem was not resolved, but frozen for almost 70 years, although the Armenian majority of Nagorno-Karabakh repeatedly sent letters and petitions to the central government in Moscow, demanding to annul the unconstitutional and illegal decision of 1921 and consider the possibility of transferring Nagorno-Karabakh to Armenia. Even in years Stalin's repressions under the threat of expulsion of the entire Armenian people from their historical homeland (following the example of other repressed nations), the struggle of the Armenians of Nagorno-Karabakh and Armenia for the region’s secession from the Azerbaijan SSR did not stop.
1988 became a turning point in the history of Nagorno-Karabakh. The people of Artsakh raised their voices in defense of their own rights and freedoms. Complying with all existing legal norms and using exclusively democratic forms of expressing their will, the Armenian population of Nagorno-Karabakh came forward with a demand for reunification with Armenia. These events became a turning point not only in the lives of Artsakh people; they, in fact, predetermined the subsequent fate of the entire Armenian people. February 20, 1988 an extraordinary session of the Council of People's Deputies of the Nagorno-Karabakh Autonomous Okrug adopted a decision that contained a request to the Supreme Soviets of Azerbaijan to secede from its membership, of Armenia to accept it into its membership, of the USSR to satisfy this request and was based on legal norms and precedents for resolving such disputes in the USSR .
However, every act of democratic expression and desire to transfer the dispute into a civilized channel was followed by an escalation of violence, massive and widespread violation of the rights of the Armenian population, demographic expansion, economic blockade, etc. Pogroms and massacres of Armenians began in the cities of Azerbaijan, hundreds of kilometers away from the Nagorno-Karabakh Autonomous Okrug - Sumgait , Baku, Kirovabad, Shamkhor, then throughout Azerbaijan, as a result of which hundreds of people were killed and injured. About 450 thousand Armenians from cities and villages of Azerbaijan and Nagorno-Karabakh became refugees.
On September 2, 1991, a joint session of the Nagorno-Karabakh Regional Council and the Council of People's Deputies of the Shahumyan region proclaimed the Nagorno-Karabakh Republic (NKR) within the borders of the former NKAO and the Shahumyan region. The Declaration of Independence of the NKR was adopted. In this way, the right reflected in the legislation in force at that time was implemented, in particular, in the USSR Law of April 3, 1990. “On the procedure for resolving issues related to exit union republic from the USSR,” which provides for the right of national autonomies to independently decide the issue of their state-legal status in the event of a union republic secession from the USSR. At the same time (November 1991), contrary to all legal norms, the Supreme Council of Azerbaijan adopted a law on the abolition of the NKAO, which the Constitutional Court of the USSR qualified as contrary to the Constitution of the USSR.
On December 10, 1991, just a few days before the official collapse of the Soviet Union, a referendum was held in Nagorno-Karabakh in the presence of international observers, in which the vast majority of the population - 99.89% - voted for complete independence from Azerbaijan. In the subsequent parliamentary elections on December 28, the NKR parliament was elected, which formed the first government. The government of the independent NKR began to fulfill its duties under the conditions of an absolute blockade and the subsequent military aggression from Azerbaijan.
Using the weapons and ammunition of the 4th Army of the USSR Armed Forces concentrated on its territory, Azerbaijan launched a large-scale war against Nagorno-Karabakh. This war, as is known, lasted from the autumn of 1991 to May 1994 with varying success. There were periods when almost 60 percent of the territory of NK was under occupation, and the capital Stepanakert and other settlements were subjected to almost continuous massive air raids and artillery shelling.
By May 1992, the NKR self-defense forces managed to liberate the city of Shushi, “break through” a corridor in the Lachin area, reuniting the territories of the NKR and the Republic of Armenia, thereby partially eliminating the long-term blockade of the NKR.
In June-July 1992, as a result of the offensive, the Azerbaijani army occupied the entire Shahumyan, most of the Mardakert, part of the Martuni, Askeran and Hadrut regions of the NKR.
In August 1992, the US Congress adopted a resolution condemning the actions of Azerbaijan and prohibiting the US administration at the government level from providing economic assistance to this state.
In order to repel the aggression of Azerbaijan, the life of the NKR was completely transferred to a military footing; On August 14, 1992, the NKR State Defense Committee was created, and the scattered units of the self-defense forces were reformed and organized into the Nagorno-Karabakh Defense Army on the basis of strict discipline and unity of command.
The NKR Defense Army managed to liberate most of the NKR territories previously occupied by Azerbaijan, occupying a number of Azerbaijani regions adjacent to the republic during the fighting, which were turned into firing points. It was with the creation of this security zone that the possibility of an immediate threat to the civilian population was prevented.
On May 5, 1994, through the mediation of Russia, Kyrgyzstan and the CIS Interparliamentary Assembly in the capital of Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek, Azerbaijan, Nagorno-Karabakh and Armenia signed the Bishkek Protocol, on the basis of which on May 12 the same parties reached a ceasefire agreement that is in force to this day.
In 1992 To resolve the Karabakh conflict, the OSCE Minsk Group was created, within which the negotiation process is being carried out with the aim of preparing the OSCE Minsk Conference, designed to achieve a final resolution of the issue of the status of Nagorno-Karabakh.
It arose here military clash, since the overwhelming majority of the inhabitants inhabiting the region have Armenian roots. The essence of the conflict is that Azerbaijan makes well-founded demands on this territory, but the inhabitants of the region gravitate more towards Armenia. On May 12, 1994, Azerbaijan, Armenia and Nagorno-Karabakh ratified a protocol establishing a truce, resulting in an unconditional ceasefire in the conflict zone.
Excursion into history
Armenian historical sources claim that Artsakh (the ancient Armenian name) was first mentioned in the 8th century BC. If you believe these sources, then Nagorno-Karabakh was part of Armenia back in the period early Middle Ages. As a result of the wars of conquest between Turkey and Iran in this era, a significant part of Armenia came under the control of these countries. The Armenian principalities, or melikties, at that time located on the territory of modern Karabakh, retained a semi-independent status.
Azerbaijan takes its own point of view on this issue. According to local researchers, Karabakh is one of the most ancient historical regions their countries. The word “Karabakh” in Azerbaijani is translated as follows: “gara” means black, and “bagh” means garden. Already in the 16th century, together with other provinces, Karabakh was part of the Safavid state, and after that it became an independent khanate.
Nagorno-Karabakh during the Russian Empire
In 1805 Karabakh Khanate was subordinated to the Russian Empire, and in 1813, according to the Gulistan Peace Treaty, Nagorno-Karabakh also became part of Russia. Then, according to the Turkmenchay Treaty, as well as the agreement concluded in the city of Edirne, Armenians were resettled from Turkey and Iran and settled in the territories of Northern Azerbaijan, including Karabakh. Thus, the population of these lands is predominantly of Armenian origin.
As part of the USSR
In 1918, the newly created Azerbaijani Empire gained control over Karabakh. Democratic Republic. Almost simultaneously, the Armenian Republic makes claims to this area, but the ADR made these claims. In 1921, the territory of Nagorno-Karabakh with the rights of broad autonomy was included in the Azerbaijan SSR. After another two years, Karabakh receives the status of (NKAO).
In 1988, the Council of Deputies of the Nagorno-Karabakh Autonomous Okrug petitioned the authorities of the AzSSR and Armenian SSR republics and proposed to transfer the disputed territory to Armenia. was not satisfied, as a result of which a wave of protest swept through the cities of the Nagorno-Karabakh Autonomous Okrug. Demonstrations of solidarity were also held in Yerevan.
Declaration of Independence
In the early autumn of 1991, when Soviet Union has already begun to fall apart, the Declaration is adopted in NKAO, proclaiming the Nagorno-Karabakh Republic. Moreover, in addition to the NKAO, it included part of the territories of the former AzSSR. According to the results of a referendum held on December 10 of the same year in Nagorno-Karabakh, more than 99% of the region's population voted for complete independence from Azerbaijan.
It is quite obvious that the Azerbaijani authorities did not recognize this referendum, and the act of proclamation itself was designated as illegal. Moreover, Baku decided to abolish the autonomy of Karabakh, which it had in Soviet time. However destructive process has already been launched.
Karabakh conflict
Armenian troops stood up for the independence of the self-proclaimed republic, which Azerbaijan tried to resist. Nagorno-Karabakh received support from official Yerevan, as well as from the national diaspora in other countries, so the militia managed to defend the region. However, the Azerbaijani authorities still managed to establish control over several areas that were initially declared part of the NKR.
Each of the warring parties provides its own statistics of losses in Karabakh conflict. Comparing these data, we can conclude that during the three years of the showdown, 15-25 thousand people died. There are at least 25 thousand wounded, more than 100 thousand more civilians were forced to leave their places of residence.
Peaceful settlement
Negotiations, during which the parties tried to resolve the conflict peacefully, began almost immediately after the independent NKR was proclaimed. For example, on September 23, 1991, a meeting was held, which was attended by the presidents of Azerbaijan, Armenia, as well as Russia and Kazakhstan. In the spring of 1992, the OSCE established a group to resolve the Karabakh conflict.
Despite all the efforts of the international community to stop the bloodshed, a ceasefire was achieved only in the spring of 1994. On May 5, the Bishkek Protocol was signed, after which the participants ceased fire a week later.
The parties to the conflict were unable to agree on the final status of Nagorno-Karabakh. Azerbaijan demands respect for its sovereignty and insists on maintaining territorial integrity. The interests of the self-proclaimed republic are protected by Armenia. Nagorno-Karabakh stands for a peaceful resolution of controversial issues, while the authorities of the republic emphasize that NKR is capable of standing up for its independence.
Nagorno-Karabakh is a state that has not been recognized by anyone, including Armenia. However, it is clear that Karabakh lives in the closest economic and political connection with Armenia, and largely thanks to this connection. Partly due to this, partly to cultural and ethnic kinship, geographical proximity is the fact that Karabakh is very similar to Armenia. Therefore, much of what I say is also true for Karabakh, and I will often refer to that story.
Poster at the entrance to the Karabakh checkpoint
Border crossing
1. The Nagorno-Karabakh Republic (NKR) borders Armenia and Azerbaijan. The border with Azerbaijan, of course, is closed, and it is not recommended to even approach it. Firstly, you may be mistaken for a spy, and secondly, you may simply be killed, fortunately, shootouts and clashes with victims on both sides occur periodically. War.
According to the NKR Ministry of Foreign Affairs, border crossing is allowed only in one place: the checkpoint located on the highway leading from Goris to Shushi. In fact, the border can be crossed in the north, along the road going through the Zod Pass. There is no checkpoint there, and some travelers pass there undetected. However, chance meeting with the military is fraught with detention and interrogation.
Our original plan was to drive along the Goris-Shushi highway, see Shushi, the capital of the NKR Stepanakert, the destroyed city of Agdam, the monasteries of Gandzasar and Dadivank and leave through the Zod Pass. But given the weekend and upcoming holidays, we did not dare to break through with the risk of detention: we could easily be detained and forgotten for the weekend, and we have a plane in two days. But in general, as I understand it, no special problems arise: if there is a meeting with the military, it ends with a preventive conversation (or interrogation for two to three hours) and a pass; V worst case- deployed. Last option For us, by the way, it was also undesirable - the ends were too large.
One way or another, these are all rumors, assumptions and isolated experiences. Each new attempt to cross the border through the Zod Pass is done at your own peril and risk. Anyone who takes risks must understand that in the eyes of the Karabakh security forces, this is the most complete illegal border crossing, for which criminal liability is usually provided in all countries. The practice so far seems to be favorable to travelers.
2. Entry. So, the correct border crossing is carried out along the Goris - Shushi highway. There is a stationary post there, manned by Karabakh (only) policemen. The car must stop, everyone presents documents. Russians do not need a visa, so after checking our documents we were only warned to immediately register with the NKR Ministry of Foreign Affairs, located in Stepanakert.
Since we arrived around four in the afternoon, we immediately warned that we would only be able to register tomorrow. This did not raise any objections from the policeman, nor did it cause any problems during subsequent check-in at a hotel in Shushi and when police officers checked documents on the street. We told everyone that we arrived today and would register tomorrow.
3. Departure. When leaving, the procedure is repeated. The car stops, the passengers present documents and registration, after which the policeman gives permission to leave. I don’t know what will happen if there is no registration or violation of its deadlines.
Registration
This is a mandatory procedure that must be completed at the NKR Foreign Ministry, located in the center of Stepanakert. The address is easy to remember: Stepanakert, Azatamartikneri 28. We came there on Saturday, the morning after arriving in NKR. Either because it was Saturday, or it’s always like that there, we were asked to come back in an hour and a half. After walking around Stepanakert, we returned an hour and a half later, received forms, filled them out and waited another hour and a half - first when the responsible employee returned from lunch, then when she looked at yesterday’s applications, then when she served all the accumulated visitors in a first-come, first-served manner (we, True, they passed in the first rows).
The questionnaire is simple, there are no tricky questions in it. Basic personal data, address of residence in NKR, length of stay and places planned to be visited are indicated. We expressed a desire to leave through the Zod Pass, which we were immediately categorically denied. The employee said that the NKR is in a state of war, there is a front line nearby, there is no checkpoint, travel is prohibited, if the military catches you, there will be problems. Therefore, she crossed out the Zod Pass from our questionnaires with her own hand and printed out the registration for us the following type.
The first line contains the name of the group leader and his passport number, below are similar details of other participants. Please note: the document allows movement only on main roads and does not allow approaching the front line.
As compensation for the hour and a half wait and the taken away dream of the Zod Pass (and at the same time about Dadivank and Gandzasar), we asked for Karabakh stamps in passports, which are generally not required for Russians. So now I have something that no one else has.
Appreciate the exquisite composition of the spread: Azerbaijan, Armenia, Nagorno-Karabakh. The only thing missing is the Turkish stamps that remained on the previous page.
The conclusions are:
- the procedure itself is simple;
- there is a risk that you won’t be able to get registration right away, you will have to wait an hour or two (third or fourth);
- There is no registration fee.
Attractions
There are many attractions in Karabakh. In this respect, it is not inferior to Armenia. There is beautiful nature, ancient monasteries, and ancient fortresses here. It is clear that many go to Karabakh to see traces of the war, and for us this interest was also not last place.
We wanted to visit Shushi, Old city With rich history, who played important role V last war and is still heavily ruined. Next we were going to go to Stepanakert, the capital of the NKR located near Shushi, which was also heavily damaged during the war, but already for the most part restored. Then - Agdam, a ghost town, almost completely destroyed and empty after the war. On the way to Agdam - the Askeran fortress, and then the Dadivank and Gandzasar monasteries. We were going to leave through the picturesque Zod Pass.
As a result, for the reasons described above, we only saw Shushi and Stepanakert, and on the way back we also saw the Tsitsernavank Monastery, which will be discussed in detail in due time. For now, I’ll briefly note that it was very interesting, we didn’t regret that we stopped by, someday, if necessary, we’ll have to repeat it, devoting more time to Karabakh.
Prices
As a rule, they are the same, but sometimes a little higher, and the quality is a little lower. We did not find any significant difference. Everything is still cheap.
Money
Money - Armenian dramas. In May 2011, the price for the Russian ruble was a little more than 13 drams, for the US dollar - about 375 drams, for the euro - about 530 drams.
Food
The same as in Armenia, but a little more expensive, worse and smaller portions, as well as the choice of eateries. But still inexpensive, satisfying and quite acceptable in quality.
I strongly recommend checking the expiration date of products when purchasing in a store. There, unlike Moscow, people are honest, they don’t falsify manufacturing dates, they just often sell expired products without any second thought. If caught, the money is returned without dispute.
Overnight
There was only one night, and we spent it in the central hotel of Shushi. At first they asked us for 18,000 drams with breakfast for three, but we said that we were used to paying no more than 12,000 drams for an overnight stay, and through multi-stage negotiations and friendly disputes we finally arrived at the usual amount.
Imagine my delight when, later in Moscow, I accidentally came across the website of the Armenian Travel Agency, which offered to book a room like ours for as much as 3,428 rubles per day! Don't make a mistake, don't book anything, negotiate on the spot.
When we got up to our room, we realized that even if we paid 18,000, we wouldn’t have overpaid, to put it mildly. Beautiful spacious room with clean linen, comfortable beds, a balcony overlooking Shushi, a TV we didn’t need and a shower we needed hot water- what more could you want!
The decoration of the room is a Karabakh bouquet, the branches are in a huge, elegantly draped sleeve, I don’t even know why. It’s very cozy, you immediately want to check if there is an anti-personnel mine under the sofa.
Orientation and roads
The same as in Armenia: easy to navigate, but many signs are in Armenian. If necessary local residents willingly show you the way.
The road to Shushi is good, picturesque, but rather winding, which not every driver will like. Other main roads are said to be good too, but we haven’t checked. Country roads are passable, but better with an SUV.
Thank you signs with the names of businessmen who paid for the road repairs are constantly flashing on the side of the road.
mobile connection
MTS SIM cards purchased in Yerevan did not work in Karabakh. We didn’t buy local ones for the sake of a couple of days.
Internet
I saw an internet cafe next to the hotel. Unfortunately, I didn’t write down the price, but it was either 7 or 14 rubles per hour. I don’t understand what kind of business this is. By that time, I had already used the free (and rather slow) Internet at the hotel, so I missed the opportunity to visit the cheapest Internet cafe in my memory.
Photographing
They photographed cities, people, ruins left after the war, monuments, beauty, squalor, and did not limit themselves in anything. Nobody made any comments to us, no problems arose.
There is information that it is prohibited to take photographs in Agdam, which still stands in ruins after the war. But we didn’t get there and couldn’t verify this information. A traveler from Bulgaria we met in Stepanakert said that he had just arrived from Agdam, where he photographed everything he wanted.
Problematic people
We didn’t encounter gopniks, nor did we encounter shell-shocked people. Everything was very calm.
The only event worthy of attention took place in the evening in Shushi, when we, having checked into the hotel, went for a walk and got some honestly earned khorovats. When we were returning at about eleven o'clock, two young men in some completely casual clothes approached us and, introducing themselves as police officers, asked for documents for verification, justifying this with martial law.
Since they looked least like police officers, I asked them to show their documents, but only one of them had an ID. They explained that one was on duty, and the other was helping him. Leaving the “assistant” alone, I carefully copied out all the identification data, saying that it’s such a tradition in Moscow to check police documents. At the same time, the “policeman” kindly shined a light on me.
The young people appreciated the tradition and said that nothing “like that” happens here, everything is calm, except there is a war, and therefore they need to check their documents, but someone’s passport alone is enough. From the very beginning of the conversation to its end, they were very polite, and I still did not understand whether it was an attempt to deceive, or whether they really showed vigilance.
Language
As far as language is concerned, the situation is approximately the same as in Armenia, except perhaps a little worse: there are fewer signs in Russian, and people who do not speak Russian are more common. But there were never any difficulties associated with this.
Souvenirs
We found only one place with a good selection of souvenirs: a kiosk opposite the Cathedral of St. Christ the Savior in Shushi. There was a lot of all kinds of ceramics, wood products, magnets, symbols of Nagorno-Karabakh and other nice little things. Things are original, high quality. And besides this kiosk, in my opinion, they didn’t really see anything.
Well, we also bought all sorts of jams. It's a good thing, but you can't take much, especially if you travel without a car.
Nagorno-Karabakh- a miniature country in the South-Eastern Transcaucasus, in Western Asia with a population of about 145 thousand people. Karabakh is translated from Turkish-Persian as “Black Garden”; in Armenian the country is called Artsakh (translated as “Wooded Mountains”). Under the name Nagorno-Karabakh Republic (NKR) in our time is known as one of unrecognized states, which appeared in the early 1990s. on the ruins of the USSR. Now the NKR is not recognized by any country in the world, not even Armenia, and the international community considers Karabakh part of Azerbaijan, which Karabakh was part of throughout Soviet times with autonomy rights.
Hit
Getting to the NKR is possible only by land and only from the only country in the world - Armenia. Therefore, Armenia and NKR are connected to each other much closer than any other of the “unrecognized countries” are with any of their neighbors. They even have a single currency - the Armenian dram (AMD).
The main route from Yerevan through Goris to Stepanakert is in good condition, paved. A passenger car travels a distance of 350 km in 4-5 hours. Hitchhiking is very good, the only problems may be in winter due to snow drifts and ice.
It is possible to enter NKR on one road and leave on another. It is even recommended for a deeper acquaintance with Karabakh.
Visas, registration and entry procedures
The only officially open checkpoint for foreigners into this country is located on the Yerevan-Stepanakert highway, near the village of Akhavno (Zabukh). At the same time, rare travelers travel on other, low-car mountain roads from Armenia to Karabakh; there is no border control there, so this is de facto possible, but it is advisable to apply for a visa (for citizens of non-CIS countries) or an accreditation card (for citizens of the CIS) in advance in Yerevan. For a description of such roads, see. Karabakh's border with Azerbaijan and Iran is closed, and travel through it is impossible.
Karabakh has its own visa rules that do not coincide with Armenian ones.
Citizens of the following countries do not require a visa to Nagorno-Karabakh: Russia, Georgia, Armenia, Belarus, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Moldova, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Ukraine. Citizens of all other countries in the world require a visa.
Citizens of all countries, including Russia, can enter only with a foreign passport. Citizens entering without visas (from CIS countries) must register at the consular service of the NKR Ministry of Foreign Affairs - Stepanakert, st. Azatamartikneri, 28; tel. (+37447) 94-14-18. Opening hours: Mon-Fri. This is a quick procedure, everything is formalized on the spot, there is no need to come a second time. The same registration can be completed at the NKR representative office in Yerevan, see the address below.
During the registration process, foreigners are given a visa-like form to fill out. You can see a sample. This is the so-called accreditation card. It can be checked by police officers within the country, as well as when leaving for Armenia - when leaving Karabakh at the border checkpoint.
On the accreditation card, you should write down the regions of the republic that you plan to visit. In order to be able to travel throughout the country without any problems, it is better to indicate in the form all districts of the NKR: Stepanakert, Askeran (center - Askeran), Hadrut (Hadrut), Martakert (Martakert (Khojavend)), Martuni (Martuni (Agdere)), Shaumyanovsky (Karvachar (Kelbajar)), Shusha (Shushi (Shusha)), Kashatagh (Berdzor (Lachin)).
Entry to citizens of all other countries of the world, except the CIS, is possible with a visa. Entry visas to the Nagorno-Karabakh Republic foreign citizens issued by the NKR representative office in the Republic of Armenia - Yerevan, st. Zaryana, 17-a; tel. (+37410) 24-97-05. Opening hours: Mon-Fri. Tourist entry visa for 21 days - 3000 drams. A visa can also be obtained in Karabakh itself, upon arrival, at the consular service of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Information about entry procedures and visas is on the website of the country's Ministry of Foreign Affairs and tour. portal of Karabakh.
The authorities of Karabakh do not carry out customs control - the country is located in a single customs space with Armenia, therefore, when crossing the Armenian-Karabakh border, things will not be checked, but only documents.
Neither representatives of Armenia nor Karabakh put stamps on the passport at the Armenian-Karabakh border. However, we should not forget that the presence of any evidence of stay in Karabakh (not only souvenirs from there, but even photographs and a story about the trip on a personal blog on the Internet) may serve as a reason for being blacklisted by the Azerbaijani Foreign Ministry with a lifelong ban on entry into the country . If border guards, special services or police officers discover evidence of presence in Karabakh on the territory of Azerbaijan itself, this could lead to imprisonment on charges of illegal border crossing, espionage for the Armenians, etc.
Diplomatic missions NKR are listed in special. Wikipedia article. On this moment they are available in Yerevan, Moscow, Washington, Paris, Sydney, Beirut and Potsdam.
Borders
Features of hitchhiking and traveling in general
- Hitchhiking is simple and popular. Unobtrusive money requests can only be found within the city limits of Stepanakert.
- Life has proven that it is in Russia, and not in Armenia and Karabakh, that people are much more afraid of terrorists, militants, SARS and other nasty things. The people of Karabakh are calmly raising their country from ruin, raising children and easily, especially in the countryside, inviting travelers to visit within 20 minutes after the first meeting. No doubt past war still reminds me of myself. Once a rich city of 50 thousand people on a fertile plain, and now the ghost town of Agdam is its trace. The dead quarters of Shushi against the backdrop of breathtakingly beautiful mountains and the tin box of a bus stop, riddled with bullets, at a nameless turn. The portraits of the dead in each family and the threat to the living - warheads in the ground that have yet to be neutralized - are phenomena of the same order.
- In the NKR you should not be afraid of a “man with a gun,” although in the Caucasus there are more of them than “men with backpacks.” Those who are armed in Karabakh belong to the military caste (soldiers, police officers, border guards, etc.) and are completely harmless to us, colleagues. In general, in Nagorno-Karabakh itself and the lands it colonized in the Kelbajar and Lachin regions (“the layer” between the former NKAO and Armenia) it is no more dangerous than in any outback: big cities no, crime - almost the same.
- A separate story is the “security zones” of the NKR. In terms of their area - about 7 thousand km² - they are even larger than the NKR itself. “Zones” are the territories of Lachin, Kelbajar, Kubatli, Zangelan and partly Jebrail, Fizuli and Agdam regions, including a 120-kilometer section that once Soviet border with Iran along the Araks (Karabakh border guards are stationed there, but the crossing to Iran is not equipped there and, most likely, there will never be one.) There is almost no population on the lands conquered from the Azerbaijanis to the east of NK. In fact, this is at the same time a pasture, a vegetable garden and a training ground: residents of neighboring regions of Nagorno-Karabakh graze cattle and grow fruits and vegetables there, and the Karabakh army conducts exercises. Journalists local authorities They try not to let people in there without special permission (an accreditation card issued free of charge at the consular department of the Karabakh Foreign Ministry). In turn, parts of the Mardakert and Martuni regions of the former Nagorno-Karabakh Autonomous Okrug are now controlled by Azerbaijan. The Shahumyan region, which Armenians consider part of the NKR and call “Northern Artsakh,” is currently also occupied by Azerbaijani troops, and the ancient Armenian villages are inhabited by Azerbaijani colonists. Following the war, the villages of Karmiravan, Levonarkh, Leninavan, Maraga, Seisulan, Khasangaya, Chaylu and Yaremja in the east of the Mardakert region remained with Azerbaijan, which also controls the eastern part of the Martuni region behind the village of Kuropatkino. It’s clear that the route there from Karabakh is closed.
- From real dangers: Stay away from mines and unexploded ordnance. They can be in fields, hills and remote mountain paths. Naturally, not everywhere - Karabakh rescuers together with British sappers from humanitarian organization The HALO Trust several recent years consistently clearing the entire territory of the NKR except the border zone. If one of the locals discovers a mine, the sappers are immediately notified, and they immediately go to neutralize it. However, for “every firefighter”, pay attention to the presence of posters with the text “Stop. MINES!” and a portrait of the “Jolly Roger”, as well as the warnings of local residents.
- A separate topic is the line of contact between the Armenian-Karabakh and Azerbaijani troops. 250 km of barbed wire, minefields, trenches and ditches with a concrete bottom. The same front line, which is mentioned in passing on the journalist’s accreditation card. It begins on the border of the Mardakert and Shahumyan regions just south of the famous village of Gulistan (in 1813, Russia and Persia concluded a peace treaty there, according to which the latter recognized the transfer to Russia of Dagestan, Kartli, Megrelia, Imereti, Guria, Abkhazia and a number of Transcaucasian khanates.) Then the line goes through the hilly northeast of the Mardakert region, then along the Gullyudzha - Javagirli - Arazbari line of the flat Agdam region - the eastern part of the Martuni region - the Ashaghi Seydakhmedli - Shukurbeyli - Kazakhlar line of the Fizuli region. All of the listed villages (or what remains of them after shelling and looting) are located within the “security zones” of NK. So here it is: don't visit LINE and especially don’t try to go through it on the opposite side! From time to time, shootings occur in some of its areas, and in April 2016, real war using combat aircraft, tanks, and guns.
Roads
The main internal routes Yerevan - Lachin - Stepanakert - Agdam (mountain) and perpendicular to it Mardakert - Agdam - Martuni (plain) actually pass through the territory of Azerbaijan, which is hostile to NK, although since 1993-94. does not control these lands. Driving on these roads is quite safe and even relatively comfortable. Buses, minibuses and other transport travel there calmly, without any military escort.
The largest flow is observed in the direction Lachin - Stepanakert. The former NKR customs office in the village of Zabukh (on Armenian maps - Akhavno) in the Lachin region has been converted into a regular traffic police post. On Askeran from “Stepan” the traffic is a little weaker. It also drives well on local roads Stepanakert - Red Bazaar (Karmir Shuka) - Fuzuli - Hadrut and Mardakert - Agdam - Martuni.
The North-South road, 170 km long, was built in the 2000s. The new route connects Mardakert with Hadrut via Stepanakert and is entirely intra-Karabakh. The old, Soviet-era road passes through the occupied zone of Azerbaijan, and on the way, say, from Stepanakert to Hadrut, it makes a detour through Agdam - Fuzuli. The new route has significantly reduced travel time between all regional centers of NK.
On rural roads, hitchhiking is still an integral part of human life for everyone, like hospitality and friendly communication. In cities it’s about the same, only sometimes you come across nice, unobtrusive money requests.
Car plate numbers
Public transport
Bus routes are represented by one line Stepanakert - Yerevan. In Stepanakert itself there are minibuses and city buses such as “Bogdan” and “PAZik”.
Cities
There are only 10 cities in NKR, and the capital has a population of less than 50 thousand people, and the last three “cities” do not even have a thousand inhabitants:
Climate
Accommodation
For free
- You can spend the night in your tent, but remember about mines and shells after the war. Use only those places that the locals themselves visit. If a tent is discovered, no one will offend you, but on the contrary, they will most likely treat you and invite you to visit.
- Hitchhikers will receive an invitation to spend the night from every second driver. In rural houses there are special “guest rooms”, so feel free to agree, you will not embarrass anyone with your overnight stay, but rather, you will even make them happy. Tourists are one of the signs of “establishing a peaceful life” and positive changes in local reality.
Paid.
- NKR is gradually developing tourism. acc. The Wikipedia article lists all the hotels.
- In addition to hotels, there are also “inns” and boarding houses and “tourist houses”. .
- Hostel “Hamlet Davtyan” is located near the center of Stepanakert. 11 beds, 2 double rooms, 1 triple room, 1 quadruple room. Tel: (+374 47) 95 59 96, (+374 47) 94 39 78 Stepanakert, st. Tumanyan, 107.
- Hostel "Artsakh" is located in the regional center of the Martakert region of the NKR - the city of Martakert. 19 beds, 1 double room, 1 triple room, 1 quadruple room, 2 quintuple rooms. Tel: (+374 47) 42 11 10, (+374 97) 26 96 56. Martakert, st. Azatamartikneri, 111.
Nutrition
The cuisine here is Armenian. Read about restaurants and cafes
Language
On the territory of the NKR state language is Armenian language. It conducts official records, correspondence, legal proceedings, etc. The Karabakh (everyday) dialect of Armenian differs significantly from literary language. It uses many old Armenian words, Arabic roots, Persian origin, as well as Russian words. The vast majority of residents speak excellent Russian. Signs and advertising in in public places mostly trilingual - in Armenian, Russian and English languages. Road signs are almost everywhere bilingual - in Armenian and English.
Connection
Since 2002, it has become possible to reach the cities and villages of Karabakh from almost anywhere in the world. Calling abroad from Karabakh is also not a problem, especially from Stepanakert, where there is already such a convenient and cheap thing as satellite communication. At the ATS in the districts, the ancient switching system remains, and the ordered negotiations have to wait a long time (although the situation promises to change for the better in the coming years).
Internet cafes are available in the capital, Askeran and Martuni. There are about a dozen Internet cafes in Stepanakert. Telegraph in Karabakh is expensive.
Forwarding a letter within the CIS is possible, as well as postcard; in Armenia and Karabakh the tariff is the same. In postal circulation, our own stamps are used, which, to the delight of visiting philatelists and in contrast to the same unrecognized stamps of Transnistria, South Ossetia and Abkhazia, are in real circulation. All correspondence is transported to Yerevan once a week, from where it is sent at different speeds scatters all over the world. Karabakh letters from Stepanakert reach Moscow in 2 weeks and 3.5 weeks from the regions.
Read more about current state means of communication read