In the old days in Rus', foreigners were called “Germans”, hence the name of the settlement - German, that is, the place where the “dumb” - foreigners who did not know the Russian language - lived.
The settlement was located in Moscow on the right bank of the Yauza in the area of modern Baumanskaya Street. The Kukuy stream flowed through the settlement, which is why the settlement itself was called Kukuy. Only two architectural monuments of that era have survived to this day. This is the Lefortovo Palace of the late 17th century and the so-called Slobodskaya Palace of the 18th century.
The first foreigners to appear in Moscow were merchants. Lying at a busy crossroads of trade routes between West and East, Moscow has long attracted merchants. In turn, the rulers of Moscow welcomed the trade of foreigners in every possible way and gave them benefits.
The merchant’s lifestyle cannot be called sedentary; there weren’t many of them, and they lived dispersedly and not compactly in Moscow.
Italian servants
The first significant settlement of representatives of Western European peoples appeared in Moscow at the end of the 15th century. Then the Grand Duke and already the sovereign of All Rus' Ivan III launched a grandiose construction project, for which he invited the best European specialists. 
Foreign masters Italians strengthened and equipped the Kremlin, Germans bells and cannons were cast, and artillery was organized. The Moscow government generously rewards them for their efforts, surrounds them with various honors, but denies them the opportunity to return home. The famous Aristotle Fiorovanti paid with disgrace and imprisonment for trying to achieve a return to his homeland.
Thus, under Ivan III, coercive tactics appeared in relation to the necessary foreigners, which would later develop into the Moscow political tradition, traces of which can be seen today.
European drunks
Under the son of Ivan III, Vasily, the number of foreigners accepted into Moscow service increased significantly. A new category is emerging - the military. For foreign soldiers, Vasily founded a special settlement in Zamoskvorechye, which received the funny name Naleika or Nalivki. This settlement was located in the area of modern Spasolivkovsky lanes. 
It got its name from the verb “to pour”. Foreign soldiers were allowed to drink alcohol at any time, while local residents were only allowed on major holidays. So the foreigners “filled up” at any time of the day all year round. Therefore, the main motive for founding the settlement was the desire to protect Muscovites from harmful Western habits. Sloboda Nalivki became the first foreign settlement, territorially isolated from the Moscow suburb. It was a kind of reservation.
Captive labor force
Under Ivan the Terrible, a German colony appeared in Moscow to replace the Nalivki settlement. During the war with the Teutonic Order, the Moscow rulers came up with the idea of using prisoners as labor. The bulk of the prisoners were Livonian Germans. They were settled in a separate settlement on the banks of the Yauza River.
In 1575, with the permission of the tsar, they built the first Lutheran church in Moscow. True, it did not last long. After 5 years, the tsar, angry at the Germans for something, sent guardsmen to the settlement, who destroyed the houses and destroyed the church.
Godunov Thaw
The church in the settlement was rebuilt again under Boris Godunov. Boris tried in every possible way to attract foreigners to serve in Moscow; he was extremely favorable to immigrants from Livonia and Germans in general. During his reign, the population of the settlement grew and began to resemble a real German town.
During troubled times in 1610, the settlement was destroyed by fire, and its inhabitants scattered. Foreigners appear in Moscow again under Mikhail Fedorovich. At first they do not form a compact settlement, but live separately on Tverskaya and Arbat, Sivtsev Vrazhek and Maroseyka, Pokrovka and Myasnitskaya. But over time, they build churches for themselves and try to settle closer to them.
Segregation
Both the townspeople and the clergy looked very askance at the foreigners who began to settle in groups around their churches. The reasons for the discontent were partly economic. The Germans raised the prices of land and yards to such an extent that it became unaffordable for the local Russian population. As a result, the Orthodox churches located in these areas rapidly became poorer as the number of their parishes declined.
Complaints from priests and townspeople forced the authorities to take decisive action. A decree is issued to move all churches beyond the boundaries of Zemlyanoy Town - away from the Orthodox churches of the place. A ban is introduced on the sale of yards within the city to foreigners. Then, on the initiative of Patriarch Nikon Foreigners are prohibited from wearing Russian costume, which they were happy to master. In 1652, an order was issued to evict all Germans outside the city - to the banks of the Yauza, where they were given a place to found a new settlement.
The new foreign settlement (as it was officially called) was formed on the site where there was a German settlement at the end of the 16th and beginning of the 17th centuries. This territory adjoined the right bank of the Yauza and was in contact with Basmanny settlements, the palace villages of Pokrovsky and Preobrazhensky.
Idyll
The settlement was rebuilt quickly. Upon resettlement, each resident received a plot of land. Those who had wooden houses in the city were ordered to dismantle them and move them to the settlement. At first all the houses were wooden, but over time stone ones also appeared. 
We have received a review of the settlement from an eyewitness who wrote in 1675 that it looked like a German city: " Rows of small cozy houses with tiled roofs stretch along the straight and wide streets. Although many of them are wooden, they are all skillfully painted to resemble brick. Sandy paths lead to the houses, the edges of which are lined with green, neatly trimmed trees. Behind the low fences in the front gardens, fragrant flowers smell wonderful. In the center of the settlement there is a quadrangular pond, the clear waters of which reflect the crowns of the surrounding trees. A windmill flaps its wings nearby.
On the slope near the river, fat cows, fine-wool sheep, pigs and a variety of different birds graze. Vegetables grown by hardworking Germans, including potatoes, unknown in Rus', are ripening in the gardens. The streets are neatly swept, the people are cheerful and friendly. Literally everything has a touch of German quality, comfort and cleanliness."
Churches
Almost simultaneously with their houses, foreign residents build churches for themselves. By the end of the reign of Alexei Mikhailovich in the Novoinozemnaya Sloboda, all the churches were wooden, without bells or organs, heated by large tiled stoves. The first stone church was built in 1686 by the Lutheran merchant community. The second stone church was built in Kirochny Lane, according to rumors that circulated among foreigners at that time, at the expense of Peter I. The young Tsar was personally present at its consecration.
Ethnic composition
The German settlement was very heterogeneous in its ethnic composition. Almost all Western European peoples were represented in it French people And English, Swedes And Dutch, Italians And Germans. The latter were the majority, so their language was dominant in the settlement. However, the inhabitants of the settlement differed not only in their country of origin and language. They had different religions. Even in those days, religious differences divided the population and states of Western Europe into hostile camps. However, there were no echoes of this struggle in Moscow, no matter what drastic forms it took abroad.
The peaceful coexistence of different faiths - one of the distinctive features of the Russian state - was also reflected in the life of the German Settlement. Moscow Lutherans and Calvinists lived peacefully with us. Catholics and Protestants did not quarrel with each other on our territory.
What did you do
The population of the settlement was as heterogeneous in terms of occupation as it was ethnically. Initially, the military dominated. Moscow authorities practiced hiring European military instructors. The officers were paid well and were very wealthy people.
But the first place in terms of government remuneration was occupied by doctors. In the 16th and 17th centuries, foreign doctors began to be prescribed from Europe for the royal family. Pharmacists who served in the Pharmacy Department also received a lot. The memory of the pharmacists who lived in the German settlement is preserved in the name of Aptekarsky Lane. 
Another group of the suburban population consisted of foreign traders. Many merchants, thanks to their commercial skill and benefits, made huge fortunes in Russia.
Foreigners were subject to Russian laws. Traders and visiting foreigners were tried by the Ambassadorial Order, and servicemen - by the Foreign Order.
Equated to dogs
An important principle of Moscow's policy towards foreigners was the protection of Orthodoxy. The authorities categorically prohibited the propaganda of Western European religions and generally tried to ensure that Muscovites communicate less with people of other faiths. And Muscovites themselves were wary of other religions, and their adherents were looked upon as inferior Christians, beings of a lower level and generally unclean.
If such a non-religious person entered the Russian church, it was considered desecrated. There was even a special rite for cleansing the church that a non-believer had visited. In meaning, it was equated to the rite of purification after a dog accidentally entered the church. It was believed that with his presence a non-Christian desecrated icons in private homes. Even in their own homes, foreigners were forbidden to keep Orthodox icons, which they tried to have for the sake of Russian acquaintances.
At the same time, there were frequent cases of foreigners accepting the “Russian faith.” For such a transition, which was accompanied by rebaptism according to the Orthodox rite, the converts were given a very generous bonus from the treasury. Only after converting to Orthodoxy could a foreigner marry a Russian.
Step to St. Petersburg
The German settlement and its inhabitants played a very noticeable role in the history of Russia. I remember the words of the Russian historian S. Solovyov that “the German settlement is a step to St. Petersburg, just as Vladimir once became a step to Moscow.”
After Peter I moved the capital to the banks of the Neva, many of his associates who lived in the German settlement followed the tsar to St. Petersburg. Both the national and social composition of the settlement immediately changes. Rich and noble Russians begin to settle there.
The German settlement was located in the northeastern part of Moscow, on the right bank of the Yauza, near the Kukuy stream. Actually, that’s what people called this place -settlement Kukuy . Well, the Germans at that time they calledany foreigners who did not know the Russian language (“mute”).
During the campaigns of Ivan IVto Livonia in Moscowa large number of captured Germans appear. Some of them were distributed to cities. The other part settles in Moscow, where they are allocated a place near the mouth of the Yauza, on its right bank. In 1578this German settlement was subjected to pogrom by Ivan IV.
Under Boris Godunov, many foreigners appeared in Moscow, but during the Time of Troubles, the German Settlement was burned to the ground, and its population fled to the cities. Those who remained in Moscow settled in the Poganye Ponds area, on Arbat, Tverskaya Street and on Sivtsev Vrazhek.
Gradually, the number of foreigners in Moscow is increasing, which served as a reason for separating them from Orthodox Muscovites. In 1652 By royal decree, they were moved outside the city to the so-called New German Settlement, which was located in the same place as the former German Settlement. Two Lutheran churches were also transported here from Moscow, and special places were allocated for them, as well as a place for the Calvinist (Dutch) church.
German settlement and German cemetery on the plan of Moscow 1630-1640. Engraving from "Journey" by A. Olearius
Foreigners who settled in Moscow found themselves in an advantageous position: they did not pay trade duties, could “smoke wine” and brew beer. This caused considerable envy among the Russian population, the influence of foreigners on clothing and life aroused fears among the clergy, and homeowners complained that the “Germans” were raising land prices. The government had to satisfy these complaints and around 1652. The Germans were ordered to sell their houses to the Russians; foreign churches were demolished and the foreigners themselves were asked to move to the area of Nemetskaya Street (Baumanskaya Street), where a new German settlement was formed.
By the end of the 17th century. it was already a real German (foreign) town with clean, straight streets, cozy and tidy houses.
In the second half of the 17th century. one of the first was opened on the banks of the Yauzain Moscow there was a manufactory - the manufactory of Albert Paulsen, and in 1701 J. G. Gregory opened a private pharmacy in the German settlement. The lane on which the pharmacy stood was named Aptekarsky Lane.
Lefort's house
Peter I was a frequent guest in the German settlement. Here he met Lefort and Gordon , future associates of the king and started an affair with Anna Mons. Also under Peter I, German settlements lost their autonomy and began to submit to the Burmister Chamber.
Franz Yakovlevich Lefort Patrick Leopold Gordon
Since the beginning of the 18th century. the usual suburban way of life almost disappeared, the territory began to be built up with palaces of the nobility. On the banks of the Yauza, the silk factory of the Russian entrepreneur P. Belavin, the tape factory of N. Ivanov and various other industries appeared.
After 1812, the former German settlement was inhabited mainly by merchants and townspeople. After the Nemetskaya Sloboda it was named Nemetskaya Street (from 1918 - Baumanskaya Street). And from the middle of the 19th century. The name German settlement completely disappears from the Moscow vocabulary and the name Lefortovo partially spreads on its territory.
Let's walk a little along the streets of the former German Settlement and see what's interesting here...
The main house of the Karabanov estate in the 5th century.
The estate was built according to the design of M. F. Kazakov. The main house of the estate was built no later than the 1770s. At the end of the 18th century. the estate belonged to foreman F.L. Karabanov, and since 1799. to his son, P.F. Karabanov, a collector of domestic antiquities.
Along Baumanskaya Street one comes acrosshistorical buildings of the 18th-19th centuries
Lefortovo police station. Starokirochny lane 13
In the middle of the 18th century. The plot on which this building stands was owned by Lieutenant General Martynov, and in the 18th-early 19th centuries by General A.M. Nesterov
In 1832 this site was acquired by the treasury, and before the establishment of Soviet power, the Lefortovo private house was located here, in which police barracks, a fire department and an office were located. A wooden tower was built over the house, dismantled during Soviet times
Residential building of the 18th-19th centuries. The painter Franz Hilferding, who came to Russia at the end of the 18th century, lived in this house. from Vienna and painted scenery for theatrical productions in St. Petersburg and Moscow
Lefortovo Palace XVII-XVIII centuries. Second Baumanskaya street, 3
The palace was built in 1697-1699. by the architect D. Aksamitov and upon completion of construction it was presented by Peter I to General Lefort. The layout of the palace speaks of the new principles of Russian architecture: the plan is symmetrical in composition, at the corners and in the center there are ledges where the halls of the palace were located. In the central hall there was a huge tiled stove; portraits, then called “parsuns,” hung on the walls. Here Peter I held his famous feast-assemblies.
In 1706-1708. new owner of the palace A.D. Menshikov surrounds the front palace courtyard with a closed rectangle of buildings with a solemn, heavy-in-proportion entrance. On the courtyard side, these buildings had arcades, so typical of Italian courtyards. In the 19th century, the arcades were mostly laid out. The author of these corpuses is considered to be the Italian J.M. Fontana.
It was here that Peter I cut the boyar's beard
In 1729-30 The palace was the residence of the minor Emperor Peter II, whose death also occurred in this building.
Plan of Lefortovo Palace
Lefortovo Palace in the foreground in a 19th century photograph.
Slobodskaya Palace of Count A.P. Bestuzhev-Ryumin (MSTU named after N.E. Bauman) 1749 Second Baumanskaya street, 5
AfterA.P. Bestuzhev-Ryumin belongedA.A. Bezborodko, who presented it to Paul I in 1797. In 1797-1812. served as the Moscow residence of the emperors. It burned down in 1812 and was rebuilt in 1826 for the workshops of the Imperial Educational Home for orphan boys.
The building was given a modern look in the late Moscow Empire style by the architect D.I. Gilardi. The central part is decorated by sculptor I.P. Vitali created a multi-figure composition “Minerva”, symbolizing the achievements of science and the practical skills of a craftsman
Photo from the early 1930s.
Detail of the fence of the Slobodsky Palace with a mysterious inscription
Dormitory for disadvantaged students of the Imperial Technical School, early 20th century. Brigadirsky lane, 14
Built in 1903 according to the design of the architect L.N. Kekushev with funds raised by V.A. Morozova as chairman of the Society for the Benefit of Needy Students of the Imperial Moscow Technical School
Photo from the beginning of the 20th century.
And this is a detail of a fence in the form of the fascia of the Senate House or the so-called Phanagorian Barracks, 18th century.
This place once looked like this
Brigadirsky lane, 11
Baumanskaya st., 70
St. Radio, 14
View towards house 14. On the right in the picture is a snowmobile developed at TsAGI under the leadership of A.N. Tupolev
Elizabethan Institute of Noble Maidens, 19th century. st. Radio, 10
Founded in 1825 Named in honor of Empress Elizaveta Alekseevna (wife of Alexander I), it was located in an estate with a now non-existent regular park and a system of ponds, which at the beginning of the 18th century. belonged to F.Yu. Romodanovsky, then M.G. Golovkin, and in the middle of the 18th century. under N.A. Demidov was doubled and received a new one-story baroque house.
At the end of the 18th century. A stone greenhouse was erected, as well as a complex of one-story buildings (a house and a theater) in the style of early classicism. After the founding of the Elizabethan Institute, a park building and a church were built (second half of the 19th century); at the turn of the XIX-XX centuries. the main house was partially rebuilt in simplified neoclassical forms. After 1917 The Elizabethan Institute was abolished, and since 1931. The building is occupied by the Moscow Regional Pedagogical University.
Elizabethan Institute of Noble Maidens, photo from the beginning of the 20th century.
Mechanical plant building A.K. Dangauer and V.V. Kaiser, 1889, st. Radio, 13
Aerodynamic tower on the building of the experimental department of TsAGI
City estate of the 19th century. St. Radio, 11
The estate complex was rebuilt by architect P.A. Drittenpreis in 1885-1896.
Temple of the Ascension on the Pea Field, 18th century, st. Radio, 2s1. Architect M.F. Kazakov.The pea field has been known since 1718. Here in the 17th century. lived a foreigner Davyd Baherat. In 1718 there was a country courtyard of Chancellor G.I. Golovkin, who in 1731 asked permission to build, and in September 1733. consecrated the stone Church of the Ascension at his home. In 1741 all Golovkin's estates were confiscated, and around 1742. His courtyard passed to Count A.G. Razumovsky.
In 1773 The church turned from a house church into a parish church. The current stone one was built with the diligence of priest Peter Andreev with the special assistance of parishioner Nikolai Nikitich Demidov and other parishioners. The laying took place on May 25, 1788, consecration on May 2, 1793. The temple is a rare monument of early classicism architecture. The church was renovated in 1872.
Church of the Ascension on the Pea Field, photo from the end of the 19th century.
At the beginning of the 20th century. There was a parochial school at the church.After its closure in 1935, it served as a dormitory. In 1980 The building was occupied by the printing house of the Upakovka production association of the Ministry of Light Industry.In the 1960s The church was externally restored, and restored again in 1990.In 1990, according to a letter from Patriarch Alexy II dated August 31, the executive committee of the Moscow City Council transferred the temple to the Orthodox Church. Worship services resumed in 1993.
Estate of the Struisky-Belavins-Varentsovs, XVIII-XIX centuries, Tokmakov lane, 21/2-23
The first known owner of the area in which this estate stands was a memorable one in the history of Russian culture in the 18th century. publisher and poet Nikolai Struisky. In 1771, the estate passed to Second Major P.B. Belavin, who set up a silk factory on the territory of the estate, in its eastern half.
N. Struisky
It was first established in 1743. Moscow merchant Mikhail Savin, from whose son Belavin acquired it. The factory had 22 mills, employing 35 men and 23 women; the factory in 1775 produced fabrics worth 16,620 rubles. Perhaps it was here, at the Belavino factory, that his serf Fyodor Guchkov began working as a boy, who later started his own business and became one of the most famous Moscow textile manufacturers.
The factory also operates under the following owners - the merchants Chetverikovs, but at the end of the 19th century. The factory buildings are being demolished and a garden is being planted in their place. In 1890, the estate was sold to entrepreneur Nikolai Aleksandrovich Varentsov, a cotton and wool trader and head of the board of a manufactory in Kineshma.
After the revolution, communal apartments were set up here, and later various Soviet offices were located here. Since 1995 The Society of Merchants and Industrialists of Russia settled in the estate. And in 2001 A complete reconstruction began - in fact, an ordinary concrete copy of the estate was created... At the same time, the color of the main house also changed - from yellow it became blue.
Church of the Second Community of Old Believers-Pomorians of Marriage Consent in the Name of the Resurrection of Christ and the Intercession of the Mother of God, 1907-1908, architect I.E. Bondarenko.
Rich Old Believers spared no expense on the construction and decoration of churches, which began to be built after the lifting of the ban imposed in 1856. I.V. Morozov told the architect: “Tell me what you need, everything will be done... No estimate is needed, as much as you need, that’s what it will cost, just so it’s good!” In Tokmakov Lane, construction began on May 1, 1907, and in the fall the building was already standing, ready for finishing work, which continued throughout the winter and spring of the next year. The consecration in the name of the Resurrection of Christ and the Intercession of the Virgin Mary took place on June 8, 1908. The cost of construction and finishing was about 150 thousand rubles.
Photo 1909
Everything in the temple was made according to the design of I. E. Bondarenko: the iconostasis of dark bog oak, and bronze utensils, and wrought iron decorations, and majolica, made in the Mamontov pottery workshop "Abramtsevo" in Butyrki. It looks like restoration work is currently underway.
Wooden residential building by A. V. Krupennikov, 1912-1913, architect V. A. Rudanovsky, Denisovsky lane, 24
Mansion 1903, architect L.F. Dauksh, Denisovsky lane, 30с1
Mansion of the early 19th century, Denisovsky lane. 23
At the heart of this building are chambers of the 12th-18th centuries, which completely preserved the vault system in the basement floor. In 1777 its owner was I.I. Butasov. It is possible that by 1817 it was built on a much older foundation by Second Lieutenant S.G. Savin
And this is the very first building of the architect F.O. Shekhtel. Baumanskaya st. no. 58
In 1878 (according to other sources, in 1884) he fulfilled the order of the textile manufacturer Shchapov, building for him a residential building on the corner of the modern German Baumanskaya) and Denisovsky Lane.
This is how the walk turned out. I hope I didn't bore you too much. Thank you for walking with me
In the vast area between the Baumanskaya and Kurskaya metro stations, the famous German settlement was once located. A place where you can still find echoes of the times of the emperors, Catherine II and Alexander I, admire the Lefortovo Palace, Yelokhovsky Epiphany Cathedral, and other architectural monuments. And next to the settlement, in an area with the self-explanatory ancient name Gorokhovo Pole, there are many interesting old estates and churches.
Three hundred years ago, outside Zemlyanoy Town (now the Garden Ring), on the banks of the Yauza River, a small European town appeared, very different from the rest of Moscow - Nemetskaya Sloboda. Smooth, stone-paved streets, churches with high spiers - doctors, military men, and jewelers from Western Europe, mostly Germans and Dutch, who worked at the royal court lived here.
This was one of Peter the Great's favorite places. His friends and associates lived here: the Swiss Franz Lefort, the Scotsman Patrick Gordon, his first love - (von Monson). Peter the Great built the Lefortovo Palace here and moved his residence to it. The German settlement temporarily became more significant than the Kremlin. Today, the boundaries of Sloboda have blurred, and many historically significant objects have been lost among ordinary new buildings.
Baumanskaya street. In the footsteps of Pushkin.
Baumanskaya Street bears the name of a Bolshevik who was killed in this area during the first Russian revolution of 1905 - 1907. Its historical name is German. It was here that the center of the German Settlement was located. Several remarkable estates have been preserved in this area: a classic one, built at the end of the 18th century. Karabanov's house (Baumanskaya street, no. 38, building 1) and the eclectic estate of the merchant Shchapov, built in 1884 according to the design of the architect Alexander Kaminsky (Baumanskaya street, no. 58). Not far from here, on the corner of Malaya Pochtovaya and Hospital Lane, there was a house in which the great poet was born. His fate is closely connected with this area of Moscow: a few blocks away, on Staraya Basmannaya, lived Alexander Sergeevich’s uncle, with whom he often visited. Not far from here, in the Yelokhovsky Epiphany Cathedral, the baptism of the future poet took place.
Elokhovsky Epiphany Cathedral
At the intersection of Baumanskaya and Spartakovskaya streets there is the Church of the Epiphany in Yelokhovo. Here was the usual village of Elokhovo near Moscow, in which the Moscow saint was born; his relics now rest in the Cathedral on Red Square. 
In the 18th century it became part of Moscow.
Alexander Pushkin was baptized in the Elokhovsky Church, but the building has not survived. The current temple in the Empire style was built in 1837 - 1853. architect Evgraf Tyurin. This is a large five-domed cathedral, to which a tiered bell tower is attached on the western side.
During Soviet times, the temple was never closed, and services there never stopped. After the explosion in 1931, the Yelokhovsky Cathedral became the largest in Moscow for many years, from 1938 to 1991. was the Patriarchal Cathedral. Now the Elokhovsky Epiphany Church remains a cathedral; sometimes the Holy Patriarch of Moscow and All Rus' holds services here.
Anna Mons House
Voznesenskaya Street (its current name is Radio Street) is named after the Church of the Ascension on the Pea Field. Turning right along this street, you can reach the former Elizabethan Institute of Noble Maidens.
Initially, this mansion belonged to Nikita Demidov, a representative of the famous family of Ural mining owners. His son Nikolai Demidov in 1827 donated his estate to the house of industriousness, on the basis of which the Elizabethan Women's Institute was soon created. The girls studied languages, history, geography, mathematics, the law of God, and home economics.
This tradition partly continued in Soviet times, when the Elisabeth Institute became the Moscow Regional Pedagogical Institute named after Krupskaya. Unfortunately, the Demidov estate was poorly preserved - the palace was rebuilt many times, buildings on the territory were partially demolished or built on.
Church of the Ascension on Pea Field
Church of the Ascension on the Pea Field (Radio Street, 2). This area became part of Moscow only in the 18th century; before that, there was a simple field on which peas were actually sown. The famous Moscow architect, Matvey Kazakov, who held the position of chief architect of Moscow, transformed it beyond recognition.
Matvey Kazakov's Moscow is the Petrovsky Travel Palace, the Senate in the Kremlin, the Hall of Columns of the House of Unions, the churches of Metropolitan Philip, Cosmas and Damian and, of course, the Church of the Ascension on the Pea Field. Here Kazakov used his favorite motif - the rotunda, in the form of which the main building of the church was built. It is decorated with Ionic semi-columns, which are in harmony with the Ionic colonnade surrounding the rotunda. Unfortunately, the interior decoration of the temple was lost during the Soviet years. But the original church fence has been preserved - an authentic monument from 1805. Near the church there is a small shop where you can buy monastery pies, buns and gingerbreads.
Razumovsky's estate on Yauza
One of the most luxurious houses in Moscow, the Razumovsky estate is comparable to the large royal country residences - Tsaritsyn, Petrovsky Travel Palace, St. Petersburg Pavlovsk or Tsarskoye Selo. Together with the outbuildings, the estate occupies half of modern Kazakova Street (18 Kazakova Street). Its owner was Count Alexei Razumovsky, Minister of Public Education, Privy Councilor, and Senator. The estate was built by his order in 1799 - 1802. The name of the architect is unknown. Among the possible authors are Matvey Kazakov, Nikolai Lvov, Giacomo Quarenghi.
The first German settlement in Moscow appeared under Vasily III, who brought with him an honorary guard of hired foreigners and assigned them the Nalivki settlement in Moscow, between Polyanka and Yakimanka, for settlement. This settlement was burned by the Crimean Khan Devlet I Giray during his attack on Moscow in 1571.
The campaigns of Tsar Ivan IV in Livonia brought a very large number of captured Germans to Moscow. Some of them were distributed to cities. The other part settled in Moscow and they were given a new place for construction, near the mouth of the Yauza, on its right bank. In 1578, this German settlement was subjected to a pogrom by Ivan IV.
The patron of foreigners was Boris Godunov. During his reign, many foreigners appeared in Moscow. However, the Troubles brought with it new devastation: the German settlement was burned to the ground. Its population fled to the cities, and those who remained in Moscow began to settle in the area near Chistye Prudy, but their houses were on Arbat, on Tverskaya Street and on Sivtsev Vrazhek.
Living in Russia, foreigners assimilated with the Russians, entered into kinship with them, converted to Orthodoxy, and served the Russian tsars. The Russian people, for their part, also borrowed a lot from the “Germans”. In the house of a wealthy Russian person of the 17th century, it was no longer uncommon to find tables and chairs made of ebony or Indian wood next to simple linden or oak tables or benches. Mirrors and clocks began to appear on the walls.
German settlement at the end of the 17th century. From an engraving by Heinrich de Witt. Second half of the sheet Foreigners who settled in Moscow found themselves in an advantageous position: they did not pay trade duties, could “smoke wine” and brew beer. This caused considerable envy among the Russian population; the influence of foreigners on clothing and life aroused fears among the clergy; homeowners complained that the “Germans” were raising land prices. The government had to satisfy these complaints. Around 1652 the Germans were ordered to sell their houses to the Russians; foreign churches were demolished and all foreigners were invited to move to the area of the current German street, where a new German settlement was formed.
By the end of the 17th century, it was already a real German (foreign) town with clean, straight streets, cozy and tidy houses. The attitude towards the German side was not the same. Some favored this place, others looked at foreigners as heretics.
Peter I was a frequent visitor to this settlement; here he met Lefort and Gordon, future associates of the Tsar, and began an affair with Anna Mons. Under Peter, the German settlements lost their autonomy and began to submit to the Burmister Chamber.
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Former German Settlement in Moscow - description, coordinates, photos, reviews and the ability to find this place in Moscow (Russia). Find out where it is, how to get there, see what's interesting around it. Check out other places on our interactive map for more detailed information. Get to know the world better.
The site, together with the Internet project “Walking around Moscow,” has opened a section in which it talks about atypical interesting places in the city for walking.
We have already published guides to the area where the Soviet intelligentsia lived and the curious residential outskirts. Next in line is the area of the former German settlement on Baumanskaya (part of the Basmanny district). In the first of two parts of this guide, we will go to Kukuy, find Lefort's castle and find out where the mistress of Peter the Great could live. (The second part of walks around the German settlement).
The German settlement, located on the territory of modern Baumanskaya, dates back to the 17th century. In those days, foreigners were evicted from the territory of Moscow to the right bank of the Yauza, where they built a separate village for themselves.
Since Germans were then called not only people from Germany, but any foreigners in general (they did not know Russian, therefore, they were “dumb” in the eyes of Muscovites), the settlement received the name German. The common people called it “Kukui” - just like the stream that flowed nearby.
Alexander, resident of the area: “I’ve lived on Baumanskaya all my life. My mother was moved from work to a hostel on Bolshaya Pochtovaya Street even before I was born. Later, closer to entering school, our family was given an apartment on Novoryazanskaya Street. We’ve been living there ever since.
The Baumanskaya area is certainly of great cultural value. There are many historical buildings here. places, but for me, who lived here all 28 years of my life, it is memorable to others. I remember well the events with which I associate certain places. I remember well how the appearance of the area changed. In some places it became better for me, but in others the extraordinary charm was lost. One thing remained unchanged - I have always loved and continue to love every corner of it."
Mosaic near the Baumanskaya metro station, Baumanskaya street, 35/1, building 9
Right at the exit from the Baumanskaya metro station you can see the unusual facade of one of the houses opposite. There is a large mosaic on it with the caption “German Settlement 16th century”.
The panel consists of three parts. It shows a German settlement on the right bank of the Yauza. Just below you can find small images of typical Germans and German women of those times. Of course, this is not an accurate historical reconstruction, but a skillful stylization.
Although foreigners finally settled on the right bank of the Yauza only in the second half of the 17th century, the first German settlements here actually appeared earlier, in the 16th century. Then foreigners moved here from another settlement, which was burned in 1571 by the Crimean Khan Devlet Giray. But this first German settlement on the right bank of the Yauza was soon destroyed - by Ivan the Terrible in 1578. The Germans then returned to the settlement and rebuilt their town only after 1652, when they were ordered to leave their houses within the boundaries of Zlatoglavaya.
Christina, resident of the area: “I’ve been living on Baumanskaya for only a few months, I was born and raised in Lublin. I remember when I first came here - and this was long before I moved - the mosaic immediately caught my eye, which is located directly opposite the metro exit. At the same time, my friend, who has lived in this area for many years, claims that she noticed it quite recently. However, they say that before the mosaic was hidden behind some buildings - either cafes or shops. And then they were demolished, and now You can easily come closer to the mosaic and look at the image.”
The former market square of the German Settlement,corner of Ladozhskaya and Friedrich Engels streets
Not far from the Baumanskaya metro station there was once one of the centers of the German Settlement - the market square. The place has still retained its original layout - despite the complete change of buildings. In addition, trade is still going on here.
Previously, the market sold firewood, food and hay. The buildings that have survived to this day were mainly built only in the middle of the 19th century, and some even later - at the beginning of the 20th.
One of the pre-revolutionary buildings is notable for its unusual cladding. It is the work of a businessman who, at the beginning of the last century, renovated the façade of an old house in this way. The building has retained not only the cladding, but also the tiled frames from old signs, which is very rare and unusual for the capital.
Alexander, resident of the area:“If you walk from the main entrance of the school where I studied, straight to the arrow formed by Ladozhskaya and Friedrich Engels Street, you can find yourself in a place that I like now - I didn’t like it as a child. Noisy, full of cars and people, but as well as various establishments and shops that change here with amazing speed.
Until recently, a fair came here on weekends, adding even more buzz to the place. This area is always crowded with a lot of students (the buildings of the Bauman Moscow State Technical University are very close by), which creates a special atmosphere.”
Anna Mons House, Starokirochny Lane, 6
The German settlement, this mysterious island of the Western world in the capital of the huge Russian state, became the real passion of Peter the Great. It was here that people lived who knew how to build ships, owned other technologies unknown to Muscovy and simply lived differently - not at all like Russians.
Peter studied maritime affairs with the inhabitants of Kukui, Franz Timmerman and Karsten Brandt, and the German Settlement gave him a good friend, Franz Lefort. Here the future emperor met his famous favorite Anna Mons (aka Anna-Margaret von Monson, “The Monk” and Queen of Kukui), with whom Peter was in love for more than ten years.
There is no documentary evidence of where exactly Anna Mons lived, but there is an opinion that she could have owned the stone chambers - the only surviving residential building of that very German settlement. Now it is located on the territory of a precision instrument factory, which has not been operational since 2004.
In the meantime, it is known for sure that the chambers belonged to the father and son Van der Hulst, former doctors of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich and Peter.
Anya, resident of the area:“I am a native Muscovite, I have lived on Baumanskaya all my life. Before the revolution, my great-great-grandfather had his own small shop nearby. When he was dispossessed, I had to take my wife and children and move to the village. It seems to me that this is a good irony of fate - that in the end our family Somehow, miraculously, I ended up again in approximately the same area.”
Lefortovo Palace, 2nd Baumanskaya street, 3
Franz Lefort, Peter's faithful friend and associate, was born in Geneva, then went to Holland, and from there to Russia. In the German Settlement, the foreigner met the future great sovereign, with whom he became close. Lefort subsequently participated in the Crimean campaigns, received the ranks of general and admiral, and participated in all the affairs undertaken by Peter.
By order of Peter, in 1698, construction of the first building of the Lefortovo Palace began in the German settlement. Its appearance turned out to be European - the palace is considered the first attempt of the sovereign to free himself from the old Russian architectural canons, which he disliked so much.
Lefort celebrated a housewarming in February 1699, and died just three weeks later. Peter the Great began to use the buildings for performances, receptions and celebrations. Then he gave the palace to Menshikov, who slightly rebuilt it. When Menshikov went into exile, the palace returned to the treasury. The building was significantly damaged during the fire of 1737 and was rebuilt again in 1742, but pieces of Peter the Great's masonry were preserved in the wall of the central building.
Now the palace houses the Russian State Military Historical Archive and the Russian State Archive of Photographic Documents.
Slobodskaya Palace and Bauman Moscow State Technical University, 2nd Baumanskaya, 5
The Slobodskaya Palace, which in 1830 became the building of the Bauman University (then the Orphanage), originally belonged to Count Bestuzhev-Ryumin. He began building it in 1749.
The palace took so long to build that Bestuzhev-Ryumin never had time to live in it: he ended up in exile. The building ended up in the treasury and a few years later Catherine II gave it to Alexei Orlov, the younger brother of her famous favorite.
Orlov practically did not live in the palace, neglected it, and the building was eventually transferred to Prince Bezborodko. He rebuilt the building according to the design of Giacomo Quarenghi, and then gave it to Paul I. For some time, the imperial residence was located here.
The Slobodskaya Palace acquired its modern appearance after 1826, when it was rebuilt by Domenico Gilardi after the fire of 1812. The building was allocated to the Orphanage.
In 1868, the vocational school for boys turned into the Imperial Technical School, on the basis of which the Bauman Moscow State Technical University was created in Soviet times.
Anton, student at Bauman Moscow State Technical University: “I love the surroundings of my university. When I entered, I even bothered for a while, looked for guidebooks, read history. I wouldn’t say that I became an expert in this regard, but I can still name the main attractions of the area and the history of the Slobodsky Palace. It’s great that I had the chance study here."
Chechera River, Denisovsky Lane
The Chechera River, a tributary of the Yauza, was enclosed in a pipe at the beginning of the 20th century. Now it flows under Nizhnyaya Krasnoselskaya, Dobroslobodskaya streets, Denisovsky Lane. It was along this river that the border of the German Settlement used to pass. Not far from Denisovsky Lane, the Kukuy stream flowed into it, which gave the settlement its name.
Alexander, resident of the area:“Dobroslobodskaya street, Denisovsky, Aptekarsky and Tokmakov lanes are the most favorite city walking area, probably not only on Baumanskaya, but throughout Moscow. Small courtyards, kindergartens, shops, residential buildings. It’s always very calm here. Especially in the summer months when the streets and courtyards are completely empty.
I liked to walk through this area either towards the Kurskaya metro station or to Lefortovo Park - also one of my favorite places in the area, as well as the Yauza embankment in general - which now attracts a small free skating rink and tubing on the ponds."
Franz Hilferding House, Starokirochny lane, house 5, building 1
At the beginning of the 18th century, the settlement began to be built up with palaces of the nobility. If the small autonomy of the settlement (the ability not to pay taxes, brew beer, sell wine) disappeared in the time of Peter, then under Catherine the Great Sloboda the way of life almost completely disappeared.
Here, meanwhile, foreigners who came to Russia continued to settle. For example, Franz Hilferding, ballet dancer, choreographer and teacher. In 1758-1764, he staged performances and designed scenery for St. Petersburg and Moscow ballet troupes.
Lefortovo police station building, Starokirochny Lane, 13
In the 1770s, the Nesterov city estate was built here. The building turned out to be so strong that it survived the fire of 1812. 20 years after the fire, they decided to locate the Lefortovo police station here.
Currently, in the old building there is the Institute of Business Law, Faculty of Moscow State Law University (MSAL).
Novokirochny and Starokirochny lanes
Previously, both lanes were called simply Kirochny. Not far from them, on what is now Radio Street, 17, was the “old” church, the Lutheran Church of St. Michael, built in 1764 and destroyed after the revolution. Hence the name. In the 16th century, the first Lutheran church in Russia was located in its place. Before the fire of 1812, there was another, “new” church nearby - Saints Peter and Paul.
The names of the lanes today cause confusion, because the “old” church was located closer to the modern Novokirochny lane, and the “new” one - to Starokirochny.
Although the “old” church was demolished in 1928, on Novokirochny Lane you can find the building of a Lutheran school built at the end of the 19th century. Earlier, in the 17th century, local teacher Johann Gottfried Gregory staged skits on religious themes with his students. Rumors about this reached Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, and he invited Gregory to set up a theater in Preobrazhenskoye. This is how the first court theater appeared in Russia.
After the revolution, the TsAGI (Aerohydrodynamic Institute) building was built on the site of the “old” church. During the demolition of the church, the grave of a naturalist and scientist was discovered, to whom the capital's rumor attributed witchcraft abilities. What happened to the burial place of the “warlock” in the future is unknown.
Phanagorian barracks, Brigadirsky Lane, 13
The Phanagorian barracks are the oldest of the buildings preserved on Baumanskaya Street. Initially, at the beginning of the 18th century, this place was the site of the house of a surgeon of German origin, Johann Lestocq, who was expelled from Russia under Peter and returned by Catherine I.
Lestok became the first court physician in Russia. He, in addition, was a secret adviser to Elizabeth Petrovna and was among the organizers of the palace coup on November 25, 1741. After Elizabeth’s enthronement, the foreign doctor, however, again found himself in disgrace; he was exiled and released only under Peter III.
In the mid-18th century, the building was rebuilt for the Senate (the previous one burned down in a fire), and in the 19th century it was occupied by the military. At first, the cadet corps was located here, then the battalion of the Trinity-Sergius Lavra, and then the Phanagorian regiment. Now in the barracks there is a scientific center of the Russian Ministry of Defense.
Dmitry, resident of the area: “I’ve lived on Baumanskaya since childhood, I really love my district and know a lot about it. I’m generally interested in history. I remember at school I won some kind of competition for knowledge of our district. None of my peers knew what Kukuy was, and even with They are confused by the “old” and “new” churches.”
Anna Teplitskaya