Drivers of the expeditionary motor depot of the USSR Academy of Sciences. “On approval of the instructions “On the procedure for organizing and conducting scientific expeditions in the Academy of Sciences of the USSR

We bring to your attention the memories of a direct participant in the first years of excavations at the legendary ancient monument - the site of Takhti-Sangin. We will be glad to see new photos. Write your reviews, this is important to the authors!

Anatoly Zheganov

Excavations at Takhti-Sangin. The secrecy has been lifted (Part I).

It came to me, oh, my friend Oleg, that you wanted to know the true story of what happened on the shores of the great Amu in that year, now distant from us, when the Great Country was still united, a king ruled in peaceful Afghanistan, and the legendary Takhti-Sangin modestly called the Stone Settlement. So, pay attention. Where it all started. My native country is wide. The year was 1977. One young, but already quite experienced, “archaeologist”, having just completed his secondary education, full of bright hopes, joyfully left the walls of the hated school in the north of Moscow with a C grade certificate in his pocket, but with a firm conviction in the greatest significance of his beloved science. Varan Konemur (as he was named upon initiation), despite his young age, has more than once taken part in various excavations and explorations within the central zone of the European part of the USSR. During the expeditions, he picked up the necessary knowledge: he understood Neolithic flint and ceramics of the RZhV, knew how to dig mounds, and could accurately distinguish, for example, a settlement from a site or settlement. Conemour knew and was able to do a lot of things besides winding foot wraps at the age of 17. And also, for the second five years, he was actively involved in the archaeological circle at the Pushkin Museum. The great poet on Volkhonka. The serene childhood of yesterday's schoolboy is already over; soon he will have to join the conscript ranks. But he knew for sure that having given his debt to the Motherland, as befits a man, he would definitely enter the history department and become REAL. Ah, Archeology is the queen of sciences, oh, the Expedition is fabulous and beautiful. So romantic. Such people... And because... There was still quite enough time before the army, so the young hero decided to go somewhere far away to expand his geographical knowledge, the vastness of the Motherland was calling him to get away from his mother, father and beloved grandmothers. The red-haired, cheerful, big guy Yuri Ilyich Tilman, the scientific inspirer of our circle and not yet an emigrant at that time, gave me (the author was the young man) the most flattering recommendations to the Institute of Oriental Studies of the USSR Academy of Sciences. There I met a short, bald, strong man of Caucasian appearance known as Igor Rubenovich Pichikyan. Smiling slyly, my future boss popularly explained what I still had to do in Moscow and how to find him in Dushanbe. “When you arrive, you will find the Institute of History on Lenin Street. If you ask any dog, they all know Pichikyan.” We decided on this. I wrote an application to OK, received a travel certificate, everything is like an adult. The expedition began work in the first days of August; it was necessary to hurry. I needed to: buy a plane ticket, obtain permission to enter the border zone at my local police station, reassure my family, convincing them that everything would be fine. A ticket for an overnight flight to the capital of Tajikistan was not cheap - as much as 82 rubles, but Pichikyan promised to return the money, the cops gave me a business trip stamp and didn’t ask any unnecessary questions, my mother’s “Ahi” and “Okhi” quieted down. I promised to dress warmly and take my grandfather’s padded jacket with me. The sisters did not perform, the father was calm, he had experienced a lot in life. One experienced relative briefly explained to me the necessary rules of conduct accepted in the East. It looked something like this: The East is a delicate matter, as we know. There are still Basmachi around there, as in “White Sun of the Desert.” The main thing is not to violate local customs. If you violate even the slightest, they will kill you, but if you don’t violate, then there is nothing to be afraid of. Asia, sir. Enriched with a load of such knowledge, with a small backpack on my back and a quilted jacket under my arm, I flew out of Domodedovo towards the sunrise.
First impressions. A city in the palms of the mountains. Eastern hospitality.

Early in the morning, looking out the window, I was shocked and mesmerized by the beauty of the amazing picture that opened up to my eyes from the side of the aircraft. All the passengers, those who were awake, pressed their faces to the windows. The edge of a huge bright red disk appeared above the slightly rounded horizon, illuminating with a flaming color numerous blades of sharp mountain peaks that pierced through the snow-white cotton blanket of clouds that covered the earth. Mountains were everywhere. The plane began to descend, Salam, Asia. At 7 o’clock in the morning I was already hurrying to the stop of the city bus, which was supposed to take me to Lenin Avenue, the main street of Dushanbe. Once on the bus, I was somewhat puzzled by the lack of the usual fare payment facilities in the cabin. In Moscow at that time, passengers tore off their tickets themselves, having previously deposited the money in a special cash desk. In other cities where I had been before, tickets were sold by the conductor. Not seeing either a ticket office or a cashier on the bus, I turned to the driver with a question: what should I do and where should I put my fare money? The bus driver, a mustachioed, tanned man in a skullcap, took the microphone and advised the entire cabin in Russian: “Put your nickel in your….” And off we went. This is how I first encountered local customs. The journey was not long, the city did not seem particularly big to me, there was a lot of greenery around, it was beautiful. About 15 minutes later I was walking along Lenin Street, watching with interest everything that was happening around me. Many of the passers-by were dressed in national clothes, almost all were wearing skullcaps. The outfits of the women, who resembled flocks of colorful birds, seemed especially colorful to me. I have not yet noticed anyone in a burqa. There's a man riding on a live (!) donkey. For some reason, two elders in turbans (one in white, the other in blue) are “quarreling” loudly at an intersection. Wow, one of them has a knife hanging from his belly, probably a Basmach. There's a little dog running. “Dog, dog, where can I find Pichikyan?” She ran away. The wanted Institute of History never existed on Lenin Street, there was the Presidium of the Academy of Sciences of the Tajik SSR. But Pichikyan was known here too. A nice, oriental, not yet old woman - an archaeologist explained to me that the Institute of History. Donisha has always been, and is now, on Kirov Street, and that if I don’t find Pichikyan there, then, if I want, I can go to her on an expedition that is studying medieval monuments in the north of the republic. It was already approaching lunchtime when the institute I needed was discovered. Immediately before this, a funny story happened to me, which happened due to strict adherence to customs. It was cool in the morning, and the quilted jacket was quite useful, but gradually it became much warmer, and passers-by began to look at me suspiciously. Having decided that it was time to have breakfast, I began to look for some suitable catering facility. But no matter how much I turned my head, everywhere I saw only signs with the scary word “HANA” (Choikhona, Kitob khona, etc.) ... Finally, I noticed a bright green wooden structure called “Pavilion”. Inside there were a dozen and a half square tables with iron tube legs, the same as in our dining rooms. A small queue lined up at the counter, consisting of young people in skullcaps, who looked like students. Having chosen as my “model” one young man in a white shirt with short sleeves and a brown leatherette folder under his arm, I decided to follow his example in everything, so as not to disgrace myself. Having muttered something to the seller, the young man took the tray and headed to the nearest free table. “And the same to me,” I told the counter worker. To my delight, for 23 kopecks I received: a teapot of green tea, half a fairly large flatbread and one hundred grams of kozhalva (a pink and white cube apparently made from melted sugar). With a full tray of all this wealth, I headed to the same table where my “object” was sitting. Having positioned myself opposite the young man, I began to carefully observe all his movements, copying them most carefully. He will break off a piece, and I will break off the same one. He pours tea and I grab the teapot. He takes a sip from the bowl, and so do I... After a couple of minutes, the guy got nervous. At first he began to look around (me too), then he jumped up from the table, throwing away everything that was left, and, picking up his folder, flew out into the street like a bullet. Although I was sorry to leave breakfast, I followed him without hesitation. As required by local custom! That's how it all happened.
At the Institute they told me that they knew Pichikyan, but no one had seen him for a long time. Well, at least that's it. Will wait. On the ground floor in the hall, at the entrance to the Institute, there was a huge black leather sofa, on which, perhaps, the leadership of the Third Reich was still sitting. The appearance of this monster was such that at the first glance at him, images of black SS officers spontaneously appeared in my head. I decided to wait on this sofa. Maybe I can wait for something? I wanted to relax a little. Come what may. It was already evening when the front door opened, and a voice with a cute Caucasian hoarseness said: “What are you doing here?” A surprised Pichikyan stood on the threshold, having completely forgotten about all our Moscow agreements. All misfortunes were now behind us. Happy, I got into the back of our expeditionary LAWN. Then they drove around the vast expanses of the Motherland with such respectable military-style cars. Now such a rarity is preserved only by Misha Gonyany, well, maybe someone else. GAZ 66 A with the academic emblem, with the fascinating inscription “RESEARCH AND SCIENTIFIC” on the cabin doors and a non-standard additional door for passengers in the front part of the awning, was the hallmark of Soviet scientific expeditions. The central motor depot of these wonderful cars was located in Moscow, in Chertanovo. Every spring, on the railway. platforms and under their own power, cars and the same miracle drivers - real aces of roads and off-roads - traveled all over the country. In ’77, Pichikyan also had such an ace named Kolya, nicknamed “Karga”. But we will talk about it later. Now we were heading to an airport that was already familiar to me, today the Earth turned out to be round for me. We were traveling to meet the rest of the Muscovites participating in the expedition, arriving on the evening flight. 4 people arrived, now I no longer remember for certain all the names, and even more so the surnames, but all the men were adults, perhaps even married. Two of them worked in the archive, one was a library employee, and the fourth was an expedition artist. There were no professional archaeologists among them, and some of them were on the expedition for the first time. Their ideas about these exotic lands were not too different from mine. The only person who was previously familiar with Central Asia was the artist - a man with a Ukrainian surname and a slightly Mongoloid appearance inherited from his Uzbek ancestors, a full member of the USSR Union of Artists, his name was Zhenya Kravchenko. We shook hands and got to know each other. Pichikyan said that today we will spend the night outside the city. And tomorrow, we will meet another very important member of the expedition, buy food and go south, to the very border.

ORDER

Presidium of the USSR Academy of Sciences dated 01/01/2001 No.

“On approval of the instructions “On the procedure for organizing and conducting scientific expeditions at the USSR Academy of Sciences”

I. GENERAL PROVISIONS

An expedition is a form of conducting research and experimental work related to the implementation of annual research plans of a scientific institution, carried out by an organizationally formed group of employees outside the main location of the institution: in stationary, field and route conditions.

Expeditions can be:

– foreign – conducted by institutions of the USSR Academy of Sciences abroad;

– international – in the work of which, along with the USSR Academy of Sciences, representatives of one or more foreign countries take part;

– interdepartmental – in the work of which jointly

Employees of another or other departments take part in collaboration with the USSR Academy of Sciences;

- expeditions of the USSR Academy of Sciences - in which employees of two or a number of scientific institutions of the USSR Academy of Sciences participate;

– expeditions of scientific institutions, mainly institutions of the USSR Academy of Sciences.

In the direction of scientific research, expeditions can be: oceanological, limnological, geological, volcanological, geochemical, geographical, geophysical, hydrogeological, archaeological, paleontological, ethnographic, biological, botanical, linguistic, etc.

According to the conditions and place of work, expeditions are divided into water and land. At the same time, the work of some expeditions is not related to populated areas, while others are related to work in cities and other populated areas.

The departure to the place of work of the expedition of all employees whose enrollment in the expedition was carried out at the location of the scientific institution is formalized by an order from the institution, on the basis of which they are issued travel certificates.

The assignment of full-time and temporary employees and graduate students of a scientific institution to work on an expedition is determined by the plan of expeditionary work, which serves as the basis for an order for their appointment to the appropriate positions in the expedition.

The basis for enrolling staff members and graduate students of other institutions in the expedition is a referral from the leadership of this institution. The same basis for enrolling students in the expedition for field practical training is the corresponding direction from the management of the higher educational institution.

VIII. SAFETY RULES WHEN CARRYING OUT
EXPEDITIONAL WORK BY INSTITUTIONS OF THE USSR Academy of Sciences

These “Safety Rules for Field Expeditionary Work” have been developed in accordance with current legislation on labor protection and regulate the basic requirements for ensuring healthy and safe working conditions when conducting field expeditionary work.

These Rules are based on the basic requirements of the Safety Rules for Geological Exploration Work.

The Rules apply to all institutions, enterprises and organizations of the USSR Academy of Sciences (hereinafter referred to as the Rules - institutions) sending employees on expeditions or organizing and conducting expeditions.

Based on these Rules, institutions of the USSR Academy of Sciences conducting field expeditionary work develop and approve, in agreement with trade union bodies, safety instructions based on local conditions for conducting field expeditionary work.

Responsibility for the implementation of these Rules rests with the leadership of institutions of the USSR Academy of Sciences, heads of expeditions, parties, and detachments.

Control over compliance with the requirements of the Safety Rules during field expeditionary work should be carried out by Sections, Divisions of the Presidium of the USSR Academy of Sciences and the Administration of the USSR Academy of Sciences (labor safety department).

1. General Provisions

1.1. Preparation for field expeditionary work must comply with the program (plan) for conducting field expeditionary work.

1.2. The staffing of field units should be carried out taking into account the provision of healthy and safe working conditions during field work. The staffing and numerical strength of the field unit must ensure the safe conduct of work.

The selection of employees is carried out in advance, taking into account suitability for work in the field, business and personal qualities.

Persons who have violated safety regulations or have repeatedly failed to comply with the instructions of the leadership of the field unit should, as a rule, not be allowed to work on the expedition.

1.3. All employees traveling to the field must undergo mandatory pre-employment and periodic medical examinations in the manner established by the USSR Ministry of Health and agreed upon with the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions, taking into account the profile and conditions of their work.

It is prohibited to hire or send to the field persons whose health condition does not correspond to these working conditions.

All staff members sent to field work, as well as student interns, are subject to mandatory protective vaccinations in the manner established by the USSR Ministry of Health.

Employees of expeditionary parties and detachments associated with work on sea, river and lake vessels are required to undergo a medical examination in accordance with the Instructions for the medical examination of new and old-time naval personnel.

1.4. Employment of persons under 16 years of age in field units is prohibited.

When carrying out expeditionary work in uninhabited, mountain-taiga, high-mountain, tundra, desert and semi-desert areas, as well as during drilling, mining exploration, hydrogeological and engineering-geological work and work related to the use of radioactive substances and sources of ionizing radiation, it is prohibited hiring persons under 18 years of age.

1.5. Before the start of field work, all employees of expeditionary parties and detachments must be familiar with the main natural features of the work area, possible dangers, and in addition to professional work techniques, they must be trained in techniques related to the specific nature of field work in a given area (swimming, rowing, using climbing equipment, horseback riding). riding, the ability to saddle and pack transport animals, handling firearms, etc.), as well as the ability to provide first aid.

1.6. Persons who have completed higher education in the relevant specialty and have worked in expeditionary conditions for at least 3 years are allowed to lead field expeditionary work.

Testing the knowledge of these Rules among management and engineering and technical personnel is carried out by the institution’s commission at least once every three years, as well as in the case of transfer of expeditions (parties, detachments) to areas with other physical and geographical conditions. Newly hired engineering and technical workers, including young specialists, are required to pass exams in accordance with these Rules of the institution’s commission before being sent on expeditions.

1.7. Control of mechanisms, as well as maintenance of engines, compressors, electrical installations, gas-electric welding and other equipment must be carried out by persons entitled to do so, with the appropriate documents.

It is prohibited to transfer control and maintenance of machinery and equipment to persons who do not have the right to do so, as well as to leave operating machinery that requires the presence of people unattended.

1.8. Expeditions and parties leaving for field work must be fully provided with serviceable equipment and safety equipment in accordance with the List of safety and labor protection equipment for expeditions of the USSR Academy of Sciences (Appendix 7).

When receiving field property, it is necessary to monitor its quality and compliance with security standards.

The field unit must receive a set of medicines, dressings and other supplies. Each route group is provided with a first aid kit (Appendix No. 8).

1.9. The departure of an expedition, party, or detachment for field work is permitted only after checking their readiness for this work.

The state of readiness must be documented in an act signed by the head of the field unit, a representative of the trade union organization, a safety engineer and an approved head of the institution (Appendix 9).

All identified deficiencies must be eliminated before leaving for field work.

1.10. Responsibility for the use and storage of firearms lies with the officials who received them, as well as the heads of expeditions, parties, detachments, in accordance with the requirements of the Instructions on the procedure for the acquisition, transportation, storage, accounting and use of departmental rifled firearms and ammunition (announced by order of the Presidium of the Academy of Sciences USSR dated March 9, 1976 No.).

1.11. Accidents related to production must be investigated and recorded in accordance with the Regulations on the Investigation and Recording of Accidents at Work.

1.12. The leadership of the field unit is obliged to take immediate action in case of any violation of the daily routine, discipline, or safety rules, up to and including removing the violator from work and sending him away from the expedition.

1.13. In the event of an emergency, the management of the field unit is obliged to take all possible measures, including stopping production work, to eliminate the danger and provide assistance to the victims.

1.14. It is prohibited to stop searching for missing people without permission from the directorate of the institution and local authorities.

1.15. All field expeditionary work, as well as auxiliary work, must be carried out in accordance with the requirements of the Fire Safety Rules.

2. Organization of the camp

2.1. The choice of location for setting up a camp is made on the instructions of the head of the expedition, party, or detachment. It is prohibited to locate a camp at the foot of steep and steep slopes, at the bottom of gorges and dry riverbeds, on low flooded and steep easily eroded banks, river spits, islands, under steep unturfed and crumbling slopes with large trees.

2.2. When setting up camp, tents and other living quarters should be installed outside the range of possible falling trees. The site must be cleared of brushwood and stones; molehills and holes, which can be a refuge for rodents, poisonous snakes and insects, must be filled up.

Site preparation by burning in forest areas, grassy steppes, and reeds is prohibited.

2.3. Tents must be firmly secured and surrounded by a ditch to drain water. The distance between tents in the camp should be at least 2–3 m.

The entrance to the tent should be located on the leeward side, taking into account the prevailing wind direction in the area.

2.4. In the Arctic, in high mountain and glacial regions, and in all other areas when working in winter and autumn, tents must be insulated and provided with heating devices (stoves, kerosene gases, stoves, etc.). Heating stoves must be equipped with spark arresters. The place where the pipe exits the tent must be lined with asbestos or provided with a groove.

It is prohibited to leave lit lanterns and candles, burning stoves and heating devices in tents unattended.

2.5. In areas abounding in midges, tents should be equipped with gauze or muslin canopies.

In places where poisonous insects and snakes are found, the floors of tents should be covered with felts or lamb skins. It is recommended to lay hair ropes around tents or beds.

2.6. When camping in areas where ticks, poisonous insects and snakes are common, mandatory personal inspection and a check of sleeping bags and tents should be carried out before going to bed.

2.7. All employees of field units are required to strictly observe the rules of personal and camp hygiene and sanitation, maintain cleanliness and order in the camp and camp premises (tents).

The camp must have a special place for latrines and for dumping sewage and garbage; the entry of sewage into water sources must be excluded.

If a camp remains in one place for a long time, its territory must be regularly cleared of garbage and sewage.

2.9. Relocation of a camp to a new location without advance notification of absent field unit employees about the exact location of the new camp with detailed indications of the conditions of its location is prohibited.

2.10. Unauthorized absence of field unit workers from the camp or place of work is prohibited.

2.11. The absence of an employee or group of employees in the camp on time for unknown reasons should be considered an emergency that requires urgent measures to be taken to find it.

3. Carrying out routes

3.1. Single routes are prohibited. When going on a route, a group leader is appointed from among the most experienced employees.

3.2. Before a group sets out on a multi-day route, the head of the expedition (party) is obliged to personally check the provision of its topographical base, equipment, food, signal, protective and rescue equipment, as well as communications equipment, give the necessary instructions to the senior group on the procedure for carrying out the route, set working and control deadlines return and obligatory terms of radio communication of the group with the party base, plot the line of the intended route route on your map. The control period for the return of a group from a multi-day route should be set based on specific conditions, but in all cases the control period for return should not be more than a day. The deadline is entered in a special journal, the location of which should be known to all employees of the field unit.

3.3. Before setting out on a route, all employees of the field unit must be instructed by the head of the expedition (party) about the rules of movement on the routes in relation to local conditions.

3.4. It is prohibited to go on a route without equipment provided for the given area or terrain.

3.5. In uninhabited and sparsely populated areas, the route group, in addition to the usual supply of food, must have an emergency supply of food, and in desert areas, water, which is established by the head of the expedition (party) depending on the specific conditions of the area and the target date for the return of the group.

3.6. When working in taiga, desert, high-mountain, swampy and sparsely populated areas, it is recommended to have a guide familiar with local conditions as part of the group.

3.7. On routes, each worker must have a knife, an individual first aid package and a spare box of matches in a waterproof case.

3.8. When conducting routes in areas where predatory animals are found, each group must have a firearm, ammunition and a hunting knife.

3.9. On routes, each employee is recommended to have a bright scarf, scarf, shirt, and in special cases, a special signal panel, which provides better mutual visibility, and in emergency cases can serve as a signal. The route group must have a rocket launcher with rockets.

3.10. The movement of the route group should be compact, providing constant visible or voice communication between people and the possibility of mutual assistance.

If any of the route participants lags behind, with loss of visibility and voice communication, the leader of the group is obliged to stop movement and wait for the straggler.

3.11. When taking routes in uninhabited areas, you should mark the path traveled with notches on trees or stones, poles, broken branches, etc., to facilitate the return journey (or, in case of non-return, the search for the group).

3.12. In the event of a blizzard, snowfall, sandstorm, thunderstorm, prolonged rain, thick fog, etc., it is necessary to interrupt the route, take shelter in a safe place and wait out the weather.

3.13. Work on the route should be carried out only during daylight hours and should be stopped in such a way that all workers have time to return to the camp before dark.

Travel at night is prohibited.

3.14. Deviations from the conditions of the route can only be made under the personal responsibility of the group leader.

If it turns out that it is necessary to change the direction of the route, you should make a sign in a clearly visible place and leave a note indicating the reasons and time of the change in route and the direction of further travel.

3.15. In areas where radioactive water has been detected, it is prohibited to drink water from sources and wells until it is tested.

3.16. When conducting routes in areas where there is bright sunlight, ice and snow (alpine, arctic, desert and other areas), wearing sunglasses is mandatory.

3.17. When traveling on the sea coast, it is prohibited to camp overnight in the flood and intertidal zones.

3.13. In cases where the route group consists of two people and one of them is unable to move, the second must provide the victim with all possible assistance on the spot and take all measures to call a rescue group, without leaving his comrade. Temporarily leaving the victim alone is allowed only in exceptional cases, provided that the person left behind can wait for help in complete safety. The deceased must mark the location of the victim on the map.

3.19. Workers who have lost their orientation along the route must stop further movement along the route. It is recommended to build smoke signal fires in high or open places, and also to give signals with shots, rockets, voice, etc.

3.20. To orient lost workers at certain hours of the night, signals should be sent from the camp, party (detachment) with flares.

In open steppe and desert areas, lanterns are hung at the height closest to the camp (in the absence of heights, on a site or a radio mast).

During the daytime, smoke signals are sounded at the camp at certain hours.

The time for giving signals must be known to all party (detachment) workers.

3.21. If an employee or group with whom there is no contact does not arrive within the prescribed period, the head of the party (detachment) is obliged to immediately inform the head of the expedition about this and begin a search.

The search for a group that has not returned from a one-day route must begin no later than 12 hours, from a multi-day route - no later than 24 hours after the expiration of the control period for return.

The search teams should include the most experienced party (detachment) workers. Search teams must be equipped with a map, a compass, the necessary rescue equipment, food, weapons and communications equipment, and carefully instructed on the search procedure and movement in the conditions of the given area. Each detachment must conduct searches according to a strictly thought-out plan, adhering to the route that was assigned to the group that did not return, and carefully combing a strip of terrain 3–4 km wide. When moving and at temporary stops of the search squad, it is necessary to leave notes indicating the direction of further travel of the squad, the time of return or the place and time of the next stop.

It is prohibited to stop searching for lost people if indisputable information about their death is not received without the permission of a higher organization.

4. Work in mountains and on glaciers

4.1. Work in the mountains and on glaciers, being especially dangerous, requires increased attention and special caution. In addition to pre-expedition instructional classes in the work area (before the start of the main routes), department heads organize special training on movement techniques in various conditions, the basics of insurance and self-insurance, rules for choosing a safe route and carrying out emergency measures. When planning work in high-altitude conditions, the time required for high-altitude acclimatization of employees should be taken into account.

4.2. Everyone going on the route must have a safety belt, mittens, and sunglasses. The route group is provided with a sufficient number of safety carabiners. The main ropes used for belaying and security must, as a rule, be new (tested to break with a force of kg).

4.3. On snow-ice, scree, rocky and steep grassy slopes you should wear mountain boots with tri-knees.

4.4. When moving and working in the mountains, it is prohibited to unnecessarily throw off stones and roll away unstable boulders.

4.5. When working on steep and steep slopes, it is necessary to wear a safety belt with a rope attached to a reliable support.

4.6. Climbing steep slopes must be done with mandatory mutual assistance, and in especially difficult cases - with the use of a safety rope.

When lifting, using the gun as a support is prohibited.

4.7. When driving along screes and rocks, you should always keep in mind the possibility of sudden rocks and avalanches falling from above. In such places, especially with snow cornices, cornice rocky ruins, in narrow gorges with weak walls and overhanging boulders, it is prohibited to shout, sing, shoot, etc.

4.8. Ascent and descent along steep slopes and screes should be done in long zigzags (“serpentine”).

Climbing straight up (“head-on”) is prohibited. In case of forced movement in this way, it is necessary to keep as close a distance from each other as possible.

4.9. When moving along mountain glaciers, special care should be taken in the presence of glacial cracks masked by snow or ice crust, grottoes and caverns, the presence of which can often be recognized by the sound of flowing water.

In these cases, it is necessary to put on belts, tie together in pairs with a rope at a distance of 15–20 m from each other and move with the help of alpenstocks or poles.

4.11. Crossing ice and snow “bridges” without the protection of a climbing rope is prohibited.

4.12. Movement on firn and glacial slopes and slopes must be done in special boots using an ice ax and a climbing rope. Ice axes must be attached to the hand using a strap.

Sliding down the inclined surfaces of glaciers and firn fields is prohibited.

4.13. The place for bivouac is chosen before dark. It must meet the requirements of maximum safety (against avalanches, rockfalls, water flows, cracks in “closed” glaciers, etc.). All bivouac devices are installed securely, taking into account bad weather.

4.14. When organizing a permanent camp, it is necessary to provide for the safety of the installation of all structures, access routes to the installation sites of all structures, as well as access routes to places of regular observations and provision of everyday needs.

4.15. The camp must maintain an emergency supply of special equipment, medical equipment, alarm equipment and food (special fund) for operational use during search and rescue operations.

4.16. All mountain expedition employees should be firmly aware that a distress signal in the mountains is given six times a minute (by any means). The signal is repeated after a one-minute break. The response signal is given 3 times per minute.

4.17. If it is necessary to walk multiple times (to observation points, etc.) along a glacier, mountain slopes, snowfields, etc., the route should be marked and maintained.

5. Work in river valleys, ravines, swamps

5.1. When working in river valleys and ravines with steep steep slopes, movement and inspection of detections must be done carefully to avoid the danger of collapse, slippage, falling stones and trees, especially in the spring after heavy rains.

5.2. Walking near the edge of the cliff is prohibited.

5.3. When traveling along river valleys, especially in the mouths of tributaries with calm currents and when wading through them, you should beware of the marshy bottom, ripples and suction silt.

5.4. When conducting routes on boats, it is necessary to comply with the safety requirements set out in the “Water Crossings” section of these Rules.

5.5. When fording rivers, the ford site must be carefully examined.

The choice of ford site and responsibility for crossing rests with the group leader.

5.6. Fording is permitted only with belay from the shore. To do this, there must be security equipment on the source shore.

5.7. The ford depth when crossing on foot should not exceed: with a current speed of up to 1 m/sec - 0.7 m; at a current speed of 2–3 m/sec – 0.5 m.

Crossing rivers at great depths or at high flow speeds, as well as rivers carrying large pebbles and boulders, or with a rocky bottom, is permitted only with the help of special methods and means (security ropes, poles, hanging bridges, log crossings, etc. ).

5.8. In all cases of its use when fording rivers, the safety rope should be tied with an auxiliary cord (sliding loop).

5.9. It is necessary to cross the river with some deviation upstream.

5.10. Crossing rivers over creases and fallen trees without poles and a safety rope is prohibited.

5.11. Crossing rivers is only allowed with shoes and a pole.

5.12. Crossing rivers on driftwood, floating ice floes, rocks protruding from the water, etc. is prohibited.

5.13. When wading rivers with a backpack, the backpack's straps should be loosened.

5.14. Wading at water temperatures below 12°C can only be allowed if the rivers are narrow in width.

5.15. Movement through swamps and mires without beaten paths should be carried out with an interval between people of at least 2–3 m and with the obligatory use of poles, security ropes, “bear paws”, etc.

5.16. When crossing dangerous swampy places, it is necessary to make floorings (gati) from poles and branches.

5.17. “Windows” in swamps, covered with bright lush greenery, as well as other dangerous places should be avoided.

5.18. When moving through swamps, you must beware of stumps, snags and stones hidden in the water or quagmire.

5.19. Hummocky swamps should be crossed over the hummocks and tactilely with a pole.

5.20. Anyone who has fallen into a swamp should be pulled out using a pole, rope, etc.

6. Work in desert, semi-desert and steppe areas

6.1. Parties (teams) working in waterless desert, semi-desert and steppe areas must be provided with water vessels (cisterns, barrels, thermoses, etc.) depending on the size of the party, transport capabilities and the distance between wells in the work area .

6.2. On routes, each employee must have an individual thermos or flask with boiled water with a capacity of at least 1 liter.

Drinking raw water from puddles, pits and other stagnant bodies of water is prohibited.

6.3. The use of old abandoned wells as a source of water supply is allowed only after they have been cleaned of dirt and disinfected.

6.4. The locations of wells and reservoirs must be marked on a map or diagram and known to all employees of the field unit.

6.5. When conducting routes in deserts and semi-deserts, the drinking water consumption regime established by the group leader must be strictly observed. In case of loss of orientation or suspension of movement during a sandstorm, etc., water flow should be immediately reduced.

6.6. To protect against sandstorms, each worker must have a raincoat with a hood made of dense soft material and goggles with side protection.

6.7. To avoid sunstroke during hot hours, it is necessary to wear hats that reliably protect from the sun's rays.

6.8. In order to protect against the bites of poisonous insects and snakes, it is forbidden to walk in light open shoes, as well as take samples and turn over stones without first hitting them with a hammer. When walking in places overgrown with grass and bushes, you must use a stick.

6.9. In case of a snake or karakurt bite, immediately administer anti-snake serum or make a novocaine blockade and urgently deliver the victim to the nearest medical facility.

7. Work in the forest (taiga)

7.1. When conducting routes in the forest, the rules of visual and voice communication must be observed especially strictly.

Each route group in forest areas must be equipped with an axe.

7.2. When moving through dense thickets, a special group should be allocated to cut clearings, with which visual contact should be maintained at all times.

7.3. When moving, forest debris should be avoided. Forced movement through forest debris must be carried out with the utmost caution to avoid falling through rotten trees.

7.4. At the slightest sign of a forest fire (the smell of burning, the running of animals and the flight of birds in one direction), the group should go to the nearest river valley or ravine.

Extinguishing a fire with a counter fire is allowed in exceptional, life-threatening cases.

7.5. When working in the forest, it is prohibited to be in close proximity to dead wood.

7.6. During a thunderstorm, it is prohibited to take shelter from the rain under tall, lonely trees standing among forest clearings.

8. Work in karst areas

8.1. The mouths of all discovered karst depressions must be marked with signs, and the most dangerous of them must be surrounded by a strong fence at least 1 m high.

8.2. Camp sites should be located outside the karst area.

8.3. When moving through karst areas, saucer-shaped and funnel-shaped depressions should be avoided.

8.4. When exploring caves, you must have a map of the cave and special equipment (ropes, lanterns with a supply of fuel or batteries, matches, an emergency supply of food, etc.).

If there is no map of the cave, it is necessary to conduct a visual survey.

8.5. Inspection of caves and work in them, in order to avoid falling into wells, cracks, etc., should be carried out only with good safe lighting, reliable belay with a rope and at least two workers.

To avoid a collapse, it is prohibited to shoot, shout, knock or pull out stones from the roof and walls.

In addition, during the inspection of the caves, there should be a person on duty at the entrance to take action if necessary.

8.6. Work in caves during heavy rains, as well as immediately after them, is prohibited.

8.7. When moving along underground corridors, you should unwind a strong rope, cord, twine behind you, or make frequent marks on the walls with colored chalk, number intersections, and indicate the path to the exit with arrows.

8.8. Ascent and descent along steep passages must be carried out using a safety rope.

8.9. Exploration of underground rivers and lakes should be carried out using a rubber boat and securely secured with a rope.

8.10. It is prohibited to spend the night or rest in any recesses (niches, pits, caves, etc.).

9. Water crossings

9.1. General provisions

9.1.1. To cross water obstacles (rivers, lakes, etc.), expeditions, parties, and detachments must be provided with crossing and rescue equipment.

Before boarding the watercraft, all persons are required to put on personal life-saving equipment - vests or belts.

9.1.2. Responsibility for compliance with safety rules at long-term or permanent crossings across rivers, lakes and other water obstacles lies with the work manager, and at temporary crossings - with the senior official of the crossing group.

9.1.3. Crossings by wading, boats, rafts and other means in all cases and especially in unfamiliar places should be carried out only after careful preparation, including:

a) selection and study of the crossing location;

b) development of a crossing plan;

c) checking transportation, security and rescue equipment.

9.1.4. All participants in the crossing must be familiarized in detail with the crossing plan and safety measures during its implementation.

9.1.5. Crossings are prohibited:

a) using faulty or unreliable transportation means and under conditions that do not guarantee safety;

b) through water barriers of any width during floods, during heavy rain, snow, fog, ice drift, slush, in strong winds and waves.

9.1.6. When crossing by water by any means, special attention must be paid to persons who cannot swim.

10.1.8. In desert, semi-desert areas, areas of the Far North and in conditions of complete roadlessness, before starting work it is necessary:

a) determine the routes of temporary roads;

b) provide the driver with radio communications, route maps, a compass and train him in their use.

Directing single vehicles in such conditions is prohibited.

10.1.9. The distance from the highest point of the load to the road surface should be no more than 3.8 m.

10.1.10. Transported goods must be correctly placed and carefully secured or tied down. Arbitrary movement of cargo in the body, on the platform, etc. must be excluded.

10.2. Avtrtransport

10.2.1. When organizing road transport trains and crossings, a road route manager is appointed from among the most experienced expedition employees, who is obliged to:

know perfectly the area through which the route of movement is planned, the conditions of movement and natural obstacles in it;

correctly and in sufficient quantity to select equipment, food, fresh water, fuels and lubricants, a set of medicines, fire-fighting equipment;

prepare cartographic material, a compass, draw up and approve a route diagram with a superior, develop a traffic schedule and outline checkpoints and timing of the route, determine safety measures on the route. Establish control over compliance with the traffic schedule;

identify difficult sections of the route, outline ways to overcome them and develop alternate route options;

get acquainted with data on the current and expected hydrometeorological conditions in the area of the upcoming route;

make notes on the route passage;

inform the organization conducting the expedition by telephone, telegraph, mail, radio about the passage of checkpoints and your location;

when meeting along the route with employees of the geological service, hydrometeorological service and forestry, consult about the features of the terrain, the most dangerous and difficult to pass areas, current and possible hydrometeorological conditions of the area;

constantly monitor strict adherence to labor and line discipline by participants moving in vehicles;

in the event of a change in travel times after leaving the main place, the route leader informs the expedition leader about this change;

ON THE ROUTE STRICTLY FOLLOW SANITARY AND HYGIENIC RULES;

if necessary, take urgent measures to deliver injured or sick route participants to the nearest medical facility;

when working in desert, waterless areas, familiarize route participants with modern methods of human survival in the desert (saving from the heat, obtaining water, navigating the terrain without a compass, etc.);

when working in the Far North and taiga, know how to provide first aid for frostbite;

in all cases of work in the field, be able to navigate the terrain without a compass;

If a forest fire is detected, immediately take measures to extinguish it, and if it is impossible to extinguish the fire on your own, immediately report it to forestry workers and local authorities.

Upon completion of the move, inform the expedition management about this, draw up and submit a report on the move to the expedition management.

10.3. Water transport

Note: * Issued in accordance with the “Norms for the free issuance of work clothes, safety shoes and safety equipment to workers and employees of scientific institutions, organizations and enterprises of the USSR Academy of Sciences.”

(pp. 133-134) Appendix No. 8

SCROLL

expeditionary team medicines
first aid (for a squad of 4-8 people)

1. Individual dressing packages

2. Large medical aseptic dressings – 2 pcs.

3. Sterile bandages wide. 5–10 and 14 cm – 6 pcs.

4. Non-sterile bandages wide. 7-10 cm – 4 pcs.

5. Sterile wipes – 2 packs

6. Absorbent cotton wool 25 g – 3 bags

7. Gray cotton wool in bags of 250 g - 1 bag

8. Dressing scarf – 2 pcs.

9. Antibacterial adhesive plaster 6 cm, 1 cm – 2 pcs.

10. Iodine tincture in ampoules of 10 pcs. - 2 boxes

11. Novikov liquid (aerosol) – 30 ml – 1 fl.

12. Ammonia in ampoules – 10 pcs.

13. Potassium permanganate

14. Furacilin in the table. No. 10 – for gargling

15. Bicarmite tablets No. 10 – for gargling

16. Activated carbon in table. No. 10 – gastric

17. Baking soda – 10 g. - for heartburn

18. Burnt magnesia – 50 gr. – laxative

19. Valerian tincture – 10 ml

20. Zelenin drops – 10 ml

21. Vallocardine – 10 ml – cardiac

22. Cardiamine – 25 ml – cardiac

23. Validol in the table. – 2 tubes – cardiac

24. Nitroglycerin – 1 tube (potent) – cardiac

25. Belloid in table. No. 50 – for head bruises – (strongly effective)

26. Enteroseptol in table. No. 40 – gastric for poisoning

27. Levomycin in the table. No. 40 – gastric for poisoning

28. Etazol in table. No. 40 – gastric for poisoning

29. Aspirin in the table. No. 40 – cold

30. Analgin in the table. No. 20 - headaches

31. Pentalgin in the table. No. 20 - headaches

32. Syntomycin emulsion 30 ml – suppurating abrasion

33. Vishnevsky ointment – festering abrasion

34. Tetracycline eye ointment – 10 g

35. Prednisolone ointment - for sunburn

36. Adhesive plaster – 1 pack

37. Rubber and fabric hemostatic tourniquet – 1 pc.

38. Safety pins – 10 pcs.

39. Scissors

40. Thermometer

41. Rectified alcohol. – 200 ml

42. Polyvalenite serum – against snake bites – “in sterile needles.”

43. “Sterile needles” with cardiamine – preferably.

(pp. 135-136) Appendix

I CONFIRM:

Deputy scientific director

_____________________________

checking the readiness of the expedition (detachment)

_______________________________________

1. Work area_______________________________________________________________

2. Name of the expedition (detachment) ______________________________

3. Composition of the expedition (detachment) _____________________________________

__________________________________________________________________

4. Availability of medical certificates authorizing participation in work
expedition (detachment) _____________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________

5. Provision of special clothing, equipment and belayers
means: _____________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________

6. Condition of expedition property ___________________________

__________________________________________________________________

7. Head of the expedition (detachment) ___________________________________
was briefed and provided with the Safety Rules for Expeditions.

Upon arrival at the work site, the head of the expedition (team) introduces the participants to the work area, provides instructions and tests of knowledge on safety precautions and first aid in case of accidents and illnesses, obliges the team members to strictly observe the specifics of work in the mountains and on glaciers, in flat areas and in excavations.

8. Conclusion on the readiness of the expedition ____________________________

__________________________________________________________________

Head of the expedition (detachment)

Chairman of the Labor Safety Commission of MK

Safety Engineer

Climbing the Peak of Communism*

June 20. We move through a wide scorched valley towards the Taldyk pass. Trees can be found only along the river bed itself, and huge rocky ridges are already piled on the sides. The highway is good, and after an hour and a half we are in Sophia Kurgan. Soon we left. The highway is good here too. The wind is at your back. The water in the radiator is boiling. You have to stop often to top up the machine or change the water. We were terribly dusty.

There are wonderful mountains all around, both in color and shape. Below is a deep river canyon, the steep edges are washed with deep couloirs and stand as a giant colonnade. Higher up, mountains of red clay with clearly defined layering take on plastic and the most unexpected forms. The green of the meadows, unusually bright, and the trees are interspersed with emerald in the red background. Even higher is a pile of gray and different shades of huge rocks with peaks whitened with snow. Groups of Kyrgyz yurts nestle in colorful meadows. Children run to the road to look at the car. Laughter, noise, talking.

From 2800 meters we turned into a side gorge, and from 3000 meters the road began to zigzag along the slope. “Taldyk Pass” says the plaque on the pillar. The altitude is 3625, and on my altimeter it is 3550. In the future we will make an adjustment by about 50 meters.

Of course, it is absolutely impossible not to climb the nearest “bump”.

We also invited Ivan Georgievich Volkov, our topographer. He very lazily trudged after us. The first peak is below us. But, alas, from here there are almost no views of the Trans-Alai Range; only in one recess did white masses shrouded in snow appear. Of course, this corner was caught on film.

The horn is blowing. Let's hurry to the car. The driver is amazed: “You know how to run fast!” Another zigzag, replete with skeletons of camels, and the car smoothly rushes along the valley, then turns sharply to the left - into the valley that already opens into Alai.

At the very turn, mighty peaks open up. Unusually white, the peaks of Transalai stand like a wall. The giant massif of Kurumdy opens first with peaks going to the left (Dawn of the East and Maltabar). To the west rise the spiky Pogranichnik Peak and Argali Peak, spectacularly ending the rocky, very steep and icy ridge. Then, after a slight decrease, there are four peaks very similar to each other: the E. Korzhenevsky peak, the Barrikad and Kzyl-Agyn mountains. Behind them rises the huge massif of Lenin Peak, clearly dominating the entire ridge, but without a characteristic peak shape, its ribs are so flat. A big drop - and again the Dzerzhinsky Peak rises with a beautiful rounded peak.

A characteristic and extraordinary feature of Trans-Alai: its snowfields descend very low to the Alai Valley located at an altitude of 3200-3300 meters, as if clinging to it with their fingers. Therefore, the Alai Valley is often covered with snow even in the summer months.

It seems that the Alai Valley is not big, but we crossed it by car for about an hour and a half. The road has gotten worse, in some places it has been washed away, in some places it has not yet been completed. I had to use the old one. There is a slight climb to Bordoba. Several houses - the base and one house on departure - the Pamirstroy office. And then - a valley with a network of rivers, extremely saturated with clay, and a wall of white giants. Opposite the base is a large clearing. Here is the camp.

It wasn't hot at all. Short fur coats are a pleasure. Besides, it’s drizzling with rain. We learned a lot of news from our caretaker Mikhail Vasilyevich Dudin: the path along Balyand-kiik turned out to be impassable for the caravan. We will have to move through Altyn Mazar, and we need to hurry while the rivers are still small.

22nd of June. In the morning, until the sun appears, it is quite cool. Without a sheepskin coat it’s just sad. Let's repack our things. The weight of the cargo turned out to be substantial - 2.5 tons. Take everything - there’s nothing to think about. There remains hope for the camels promised in Daraut Kurgan.

I started cleaning the rifle, which was terribly dirty. He cleaned it up nicely, and everyone went to practice - they shot at a target. The shooters here are good. They live on the meat of kiyks and argali, so it’s not a sin to learn from them.

We're packing at full speed. The necessary camels arrived, and this immediately got us out of the difficulty. Eight camels and ten horses. In Bordoba, we were given four riders and two more horses to help us, and we said goodbye and went to catch up with the caravan that had already left.

The wide pebble bed of the former glacier is absolutely flat. We jumped over several branches of the yellow river, but we couldn’t jump over the last one - it was wide. In order not to take off both of my shoes, I sat astride my comrade and was thus transported to the other bank. One valley connects to another, even larger one. You walk for a long time and it seems like you’re not making any progress. Korzhenevsky River. This river has made itself felt. Both had to take off their shoes. Icy water cramps my legs.

We entered the moraine hills of the left bank. Lots of flowers and everything is like in distant Krasnoyarsk. And no less marmots. Whole families, five of each, stand near the minks in large red columns; and so on throughout the surrounding hills. Soon their whistling began to get boring.

Finally our cavalcade of Red Army soldiers appeared. Having left the moraine, she climbed onto it and drove along the right bank. So, we moved about ten kilometers on different banks. But then two people with two horses on the lead separated from the other bank. “We can see behind us,” we decided, and we were not mistaken. They mounted the horses and the progress went faster. Soon after feeding the horses, the others decided to move to the left bank.

We drive out onto a wide plain. At the foothills a horseman moves with a lazy step. The Red Army soldiers drew attention to him. Two separated and galloped across. As soon as the horseman noticed them, he turned towards the mountains and immediately took off into a gallop. Two more of us gave spurs and the four of us rushed at a good pace to catch up with the rider. He rushed to the valley and disappeared. Ours took us into the hills, across the line, but the distance was great and there was little hope of overtaking them.

We caught up with the caravan. I walk, keeping up with the horses. Once I even started to trot, the horses ran after me. Daniil Ivanovich begged. The caravan workers caught a lost camel (this is already the ninth) and piled the load on it without hesitation.

The camp was set up in the circus of the hills. Tents in a row. Camels cry pitifully when they are brought to their knees to unload them. The caravanners make a kind of huts out of things, covering them with felts.

Our soldiers arrived and, of course, left empty-handed! By the evening, duties were assigned: one of us and one Red Army soldier for two hours. The mood is alarming. In addition to rifles, we have one grenade, which is given to each shift. I was already starting to fall asleep when it started to rain. Got it in the orderly manner. I slept lightly and didn’t have to be woken up for duty. He pulled on his knee socks, sheepskin coat, and rifle across. There is darkness all around. The camels lay down in a close mass and whistle like snakes. Tired horses and people snore. The contours of the hills are unclear. There is no point in looking from above. It is better seen from below, against the sky. Two hours dragged on for a long time. All the time you listen intently, peering. Something sticks out on the flat line of the hill. I look closely, it seems to be moving. I watch for a long time - it turns out to be a stone. It got wet with rain. It's nice to wake up the next one for the shift.

June 24. The morning is cloudy. The soup has been boiling since five o'clock. By seven o'clock we manage it, quickly pack up, pack - and off we go!

Today I'm riding a young camel. The sun is burning. Wide dry valley. To the right, in a grayish haze in the rocky peaks, is the Alai Range. To the left, the huge buildings of Trans-Alai stand like white ghosts. Directly in front of us is the massif of Lenin Peak. The camel sways in a sweeping and measured manner. Slumber attacks. The dead silence is sometimes broken by the sharp, plaintive cry of a camel. The sun is setting to the west. I'm really tired of swinging. Feeding horses beyond the ford. Slipped off the camel - it was difficult to stand on your feet, as if they were strangers. Then I happily walked.

Again meeting with a suspicious horseman near the village. A long search for pasture and water. The camp was set up behind a wide canyon of an ocher river in a wonderful green meadow. The pale pink Lenin Peak is fading. Only one cloud lies on his firns for a long time, but now it has blurred.

Today I'm on duty third - from two to four in the morning. Warm. Wonderful night. I walk and look at the sky as if spellbound. I ended up losing my revolver. At dawn I found him with the help of Daniil Ivanovich.

June 25. Today I have a new type of transport - I ride a pack horse without a saddle or stirrups. The bridle is improvised. To top it off, because of the worn out withers, I am sitting on my rump. Nothing, not even convenient.

Dudin with two Red Army soldiers went to Daraut Kurgan to negotiate about camels and other things, saying that in the evening he would catch up with us at the turn to Ters-agar or at the collective farm, where we should approximately arrive by this time.

By 4.30 we had only reached the mazar and stopped. The horses and camels are tired. There is grass all around, a clean stream - you couldn’t ask for a better place to spend the night. They decided to send one of the caravan men for Dudin; but they categorically refused. Having reasoned that Dudin himself would guess and find us, we calmed down.

Having refueled with undercooked soup, we assigned duties. The expectation of Dudin's return diminished greatly as evening approached. It was necessary to have only available personnel. We decided: I will be on duty alone for an hour and a half in the evening, then in pairs for two and a half hours.

I went up the hill - my outlook was good. Today you need to be especially attentive and careful in view of the glimmering hope for the appearance of Dudin. It suddenly became dark. A cloud is creeping in. There was a flash of thunder, more and more. The wind tears through the valley, you can barely stand. Lightning flashed dazzlingly, then black darkness and a roar. Rain is coming. I almost feel my way down to the tents. I squat down near our tent. From below, nearby objects are still barely visible: things, two or three silhouettes of horses. I try to have time to look closely during the lightning flashes. And the rain keeps pouring and pouring. The hat ran down the collar. My legs were completely wet up to my knees. At least a short fur coat protects you. It's getting brighter little by little. The rain stopped just before half past twelve. Lucky Daniil Ivanovich! With pleasure I take off my wet clothes and climb into the bag.

June 26. At eight o'clock we left, having previously inspected the mazar. It has an interesting architecture, made of adobe, with hair and dry grass. There is a grave inside. A lot of prayer books, some oriental writings. The hieroglyphic drawings on the wall are very good. Apparently, before our arrival they prayed here; it smelled something like incense. There were also fresh rags left on the numerous horns of the kieks and argali. They took photographs from all sides.

Height 2700. We descended almost a kilometer from Bordoba. The caravan driver, who appeared behind him on a camel, shouted that they needed to turn off. Below I happily gave my nag to Pozyr Khan.

An easy ascent along the river valley began. An oncoming hunter said that he saw ours at a distance of one stone (about five kilometers). However, Dudin himself was met almost immediately: he rode out to meet us. He scolded us slightly (the ardor had passed). They scolded us at night during a thunderstorm that soaked them to the skin and during unsuccessful attempts to cross the swollen river. We went to their place of accommodation for the night, having previously grabbed some food: they had not eaten since yesterday. The river is really stormy, although now it’s small. The two of us moved on horseback.

A camp was set up under the tongue of the Fedchenko glacier.

The drawing was made by E. Abalakov from camp “2900”

Ford again. This time my little horse almost fell in the water; I barely had time to jump ashore. At a good pace I was able to keep up with the horses and got so fast that I almost ran past my camp.

The caravan arrived quite early, positioned off the road among the hills. There are good peaks all around. A brilliant idea came to me: why not go to that snow-covered peak over there? Tomorrow is still in Altyn Mazar. It's decided! We report to Mikhail Vasilyevich - he is not quite up to the task, but we persuaded him, promising to go to Altyn Mazar by four o'clock tomorrow. Fast fees. We had lunch on the go. They moved at a measured pace.

The height of the camp is 3100. We figured that the summit should not be more than 4500 meters. There are still two hours until evening.

The “grassy glacier” goes up in mounds. In the distance, three horsemen appeared on the mountain. Suspicious. But then a dog appeared behind them. Apparently hunters. And still you can’t catch up - it’s high.

We climbed along the main ridge almost to moraines. It's starting to get dark. Height 3900 meters. They found a huge stone and lay down under it on both sides. Weather - snow, cool. We put on snow-white padded jackets and a pleasant warmth spread throughout our bodies. I hid under a stone. In his shorts he climbed into the bag and started making chocolate - not bad! It didn’t take long for the snow to arrive; I had to climb headlong into the bag. It melts under the stone, and the water rolls down in drops onto your head. It was unpleasant, but still I soon fell asleep to the monotonous sounds.

27th of June. I stuck my head out - everything was white, we were covered. We got up, of course, without delay. We decided to have a snack above. At the first stream, which had become covered with a thick crust of ice overnight, we refreshed ourselves with chocolate, sugar and biscuits. We moved further along the moraines. A little above 4000 meters we entered the snow. A small glacier falls here from the left slope (orographically), forming an icefall, and to the left there is a fairly smooth firn climb to the saddle.

Traversing the left slope at the bottom, we approached it, going around on the left side, and began to climb head-on. The snow falls in places and makes movement difficult, but overall it is good. I go first, kicking my boots hard. I make a traverse to the right, then again head-on, going around small rocky outcrops. The climb becomes easier. Here is the saddle. Oh, damn! Yes, it's lower to the right. I shout to the guys: traverse to the other side.

Exceptional panorama: walls rich in snow, with masses of faults; form a large glacier extending to the southeast. In the east there is a peak with a rocky ridge approximately 5700-5800 meters high. To the west is the peak we have outlined, forming two chapters. To get there you need to go through several peaks on the ridge of the saddle.

A discussion broke out: who is for the summit, who is against... Obviously, we won’t be able to get to Altyn Mazar by four o’clock. I stood for the top. Daniil Ivanovich abstained. But in the end it became clear: we couldn’t reach the summit without an overnight stay. I had to appeal to the remnants of prudence and begin the descent. I wrote a note, and the little tour remained standing on a small peak. Went.

As soon as it became steeper, we sat down on the ice and “set our course.” The ice ax at the back regulates the progress, the legs in front, if necessary, furrow. It turns out to be a whole snow cascade, which completely scores points. I can not see anything. We hit a strip of fog. I slow down slightly because I have overtaken the guys quite a bit. Jumped out of the fog. The descent is smooth. The pace slowed down. Stop! I look: altitude 4500. Great - 500 meters in five minutes!

I went on foot, with a run, and then again in the tried and tested way. It doesn't carry well on a gentle descent. I had to use a new method: raise my legs and lean back strongly. In a flat place the progress develops decently. Far ahead of the guys. We walk along the moraine, only stones fall.

Below is a large caravan - seventeen horses. Whose could it be? Isn’t it Boikova?* We decided to go, without going to the old ashes, to the left along the upper path. The peaks were clouded. A light rain falls - pleasantly refreshing. From the hills we came out onto the plain.

The spring flows out right under the road and below forms a lake, clear as a tear. I immediately undress and stand thoughtfully on a stone. The sun came out. I trotted into the water and swam. How scalded! Trot to the shore, and dance at a good pace. But after such an experiment, the guys didn’t feel like swimming. I liked it and was “refreshed” again. He quickly put on his underpants, shirt, and backpack and, without waiting for the others, rushed up the mountain and got completely warm.

The valley became calmer. The river runs along emerald banks, sometimes forming a reach. Up to the pass the rise is almost imperceptible. The pass itself is extremely original. A stream rushes down the right slope and, a little before reaching the valley, divides into two parts - one runs to the north, the other to the south. Ters-agar runs to Altyn-mazar.

The valley is disappearing. In front of us is a huge white wall with a lot of faults. The summit was shrouded in clouds, gradually dissipating. And suddenly a peak appeared high above. The scale is amazing. Behind her is another, a third. This is already on the other side of Muk-su. All these are the main peaks that form the ridge of the Academy of Sciences. The highest, right - Musdzhilga, to the left, trapezoidal, with a sharp ridge - Sandal and then Shilbe. But I didn’t have to take a successful photo. Everything was covered by a cloud again.

The steep part of the descent began unexpectedly, immediately after exiting the valley. The path winds like a snake from a height of 3300 to the height of Altyn Mazar - 2700. A total of 600 meters.

A warm welcome in Altyn Mazar. Arkady Georgievich Kharlampiev ended up here with his constant cook Usumbai. Dudin was already glad that we came today. Usumbai. I treated him to lunch, and it wasn’t bad. In the evening, we started developing photographs in the tent - it turned out well.

A pleasant feature of Altyn Mazar: there is a lot of greenery, trees, and flowers. This is an oasis among huge rocky cliffs that border a wide valley, flat as a table, cut by a network of rushing rivers.

June 28. Today is ford day. They gathered quite quickly, and the cavalcade moved off. The first and most serious ford across the Sauk-sai, bursting out of the leftmost gorge, seething with yellow breakers. An endless number of old riverbeds were crossed before the ford.

Arkady Georgievich Kharlampiev - horse breeder. We cross the Sauk-sai in single file upstream. I'm going last. The shore is the deepest place, and behind us there are already breakers. But the horse stubbornly goes to the shore, its legs can barely hold it up. All efforts to direct upward lead to nothing. I got angry and swung the whip, but it caught on the bow and broke. Then I gave in with my legs, directed my horse and successfully “came ashore on the foamy shore.” My comrades congratulated me on my success.

The second bright river Koinda was quite easy.

On the third, Seldar, the riders crossed all the branches successfully, but one pack horse with an inexperienced caravan driver took it lower, got into a deep place and overturned. We had already driven far when panic arose.

The caravan workers threw off their clothes - and into the water. Attempts to lift the horse with the load led to nothing, and only when the ropes were cut was it possible to pull out the horse, which had already turned over more than once. The semolina and barley got wet.

Huge rocky walls rise on both sides of the valley. You have to lift your head high to look at the sky. The black tongue of the Fedchenko glacier emerges ahead.

An hour later we are at the bivouac site. Several birch trees and a green slope pleasantly set off the harsh panorama. The sun is scorching hot, next to it is an icy river from the Maly Tanymas glacier (temperature 1.5 degrees Celsius). Tents were set up on large rocks. There is a lot of fuss with things. Disassembly and revision of all equipment and products.

After lunch the weather deteriorated somewhat. A cold wind blew. It rained a little. Short fur coats again turned out to be useful. We'll probably stay here for three days. It is necessary to take a break, hunt for cues and think about the organization of the further route.

Today our Uzbek caravan driver Yeldash is leaving for Altyn Mazar. We are urgently preparing letters. Three Red Army soldiers left yesterday; there is nothing to feed the horses here. We decided to go hunting today in Balyand-kiik. They had already gathered, as the horseman appeared, behind him was the long-awaited caravan with the necessary products. This changed our plans. In the evening it was decided to go hunting on Maly Tanymas. So far I’ve started printing photographs on daylight paper, and it’s turning out well.

We left at seven o'clock. Me and several other people immediately climbed up the rocks. The rest walked along the shore along the rocks. There's a plumb line ahead. I had to take it even higher.

A wide valley between two languages. We approached ours. They are in a tragic situation: backed up against the wall by the stream, they sadly throw stones, trying to cross the river. Hopelessly. Everyone had to walk around in their boots.

Again the wall. Going through the top. We came to a tongue that was effectively wedged into the gorge. We are waiting for the stragglers and discussing where to spend the night. We decided on the opposite right bank. It's nice to lie down in a soft bag. In the morning, it was decided to get up with the light, climb the first ravine and take it into the ring.

30 June. It was already dawn when Arkady Georgievich woke up the unlucky hunters. The cold was pushing on. We quickly got dressed and immediately went out. The Kyrgyz boy, the son of one of the caravan leaders, is, as always, in front, followed by me. We entered the gorge and up the gorge.

Suddenly the Kyrgyz man hid and waved to us. We also went to bed. But I personally couldn’t see anything. (What a sharp-eyed little devil!). And only after a considerable time I saw a goat above the rocks. His horns are like strings - far away! Stealthily, we climbed higher - the goat disappeared and was never seen again. Finally the Kyrgyz sat down and declared: “Kiik has gone far now.” And he himself did not go any further.

The peaks all around are amazing. The powerful peak of the Comintern is 6600 meters. To the right, behind the sharp, as if corrugated, peak of Sandal, one can see the peak of Musjilgi and to the right, even more peaceful, but also powerful, Shilbe. Below they end in very steep bare rocks, cut by narrow couloirs. The couloirs are filled with tattered glaciers; and in the lower part there are black glacial moraines. Tanymas, too, as far as can be seen, is entirely covered with moraines.

I decided to climb higher - along steep grassy slopes, cut by rocks and scree. “I’ll get to the ledge, take a look, and then back.” Dolez. Then the slope goes up again and ends with a rocky peak. Well, of course, how can you not climb on it, and besides, you can probably see the cues from it. It took a long time to get there. The snowfields have already begun. One snow patch climbed over the rocks. I walked around the rocks on the right and climbed out onto the ridge. We must go down. On the snowfield I used the old method. I slid down successfully, although there was ice below that went straight onto the rocks. Then he jumped and quickly went down.

On a rocky descent, a stone jumped out from under my feet, and I slid somehow awkwardly, sideways. Got a little scratch, but stuck around. Then, without any special incidents, we descended to our overnight stop.

Ours are gone! Left. Well, what should we do? I put the biscuits and flatbread in my backpack (I just want to drink). A terribly boring sweater and an assault rifle are also in the bag. I went down the right slope. The guys' footprints: apparently, they went the same way. Screes began. Ahead is a sandy slope with juniper trees similar to thuja.

Carried away by a good path, I took it lower and found myself in narrow loose and steep couloirs. I had to climb up again, the sand was giving way - it was hard. Further, carefully, along the scree. I went down to the river and felt better. I walked through a valley under the right cliff and near the glacier I drank with pleasure pure icy water. Again we climb up a glacier covered with moraine. From the hill I came out onto the caravan path. Opposite the tent. Arkady Georgievich greets me from afar.

July 1. Once again I was packing for the hunt, and of course I couldn’t resist. We reached Balyand-kiik quite early. The first fun is crossing the Maly Tanymas River. The “oldies” went lower. I crossed opposite the camp. The fight is desperate, the cold is cramping my legs. He came out wet from the waist up.
Here is the old bed of the Seldara. Since last year, this river has been retreating to the Balyand-kyik valley and now flows in a huge spring from the very right corner of the glacier, swirling further with huge breakers.

It took more than two hours to reach the camp on Balyand-kiik.

Ivan Georgievich immediately fell behind significantly. Arkady Georgievich is also in no hurry. On the rocks, having cleaned the rifles, we decided to make an ambush and spend the night. Ivan Georgievich approached much later, having previously called out (this is an ambush!).

Having overtaken us, he said: “Well, you know, we climbed very high, there are no picks here!” And we climbed no more than 200 meters. The ambush is not bad. But here Arkady Georgievich declares that Abdurakhman told him a long time ago that there are no Kiyks here. They both decided to go to the camp (that's the number!). Of course we are staying. We spent the night higher up on the slope. Wonderful night. The moon softly illuminates the slope. I listen to the rustling sounds: apparently, they were influenced by stories about leopards.

July 2. When we got up, the morning was no longer early. There are no Kiykovs, of course. We began to rise with calculation

examine the slope directed towards Kazyl Kurgan. The climb over small rocks and grassy slopes is not difficult. We reached the very cliffs. And there's not a single kick here! The Kyzyl-Kurgan valley on the left side is crowned with well-shaped white cones. I started to climb higher. I rose again to the snow - and there was no one here! But the panorama of the highest rocky peaks is exceptional. Came down quickly.

We ate with gusto, drinking crystal water. We looked down - there was a second group moving there, and for some reason only two. Where is Daniil Ivanovich? We are already catching up with the full three in the bushes. It turned out that the attempt to cross the Kyzyl-Kuro was unsuccessful. They say it's very deep. And the “eagles” settled in the rocks, right under us (and we were concerned about their fate!). It started to rain. We are in a hurry to get home.

Having crossed the “bridge”, I decided to take a shortcut directly across the glacier. The others followed me. We broke our legs badly, but we got there faster - in an hour and a half.

The caravan drivers have arrived. Fees. Tomorrow we set off on our further journey. More news: one of the prospectors drowned in Sauk-sai. Here's some low water for you!

Last night under the noise of Small Tanymas.

3 July. The three of us set off at nine o'clock to mark the road. The Red Army soldiers will follow us. They must put the road in order, and then the caravan will move on. At first, the Boykovo road is like a highway and is well marked. Then things got worse. As the glacier moved, entire sections of the road disappeared completely or were barely noticeable. We had to look for new ways for a long time and set up an endless number of tours. We reached the first ice at four o'clock. That's a total of six hours on the damned moraine!

Here we were suspiciously quickly overtaken by the Red Army soldiers, who came out an hour later. When we asked about the road they said it was ready for a caravan. Then we walked quickly, from one ice stone to another (as in Besingi). In two hours we made good progress.

Morena again. We cross diagonally, straight onto the ledge that ends the right bank of Bivachny. Ordzhonikidze Peak and the lower part of Communism Peak have opened. The scale is colossal. No marks were made on the moraine - it was flat. The second one, nearby, became more malicious, but passable.

A high ridge of moraines rises ahead. The passage was found quickly and successfully. Another strip of dirty ice. We go up and the main search begins from here. We crashed into cracks. Daniil Ivanovich went further, shouting: “There is a way.” I had to cut down and build in earnest. By evening we reached the “devil’s coffin”. Really, it's a damn hole.

There is no time to sit and rest. I walk back towards the caravan. The guys climbed onto the nearby moraines and started screaming. Then I heard three shots. (Apparently, those who had gone ahead to look at the cues returned). I went out onto the first ice and met Arkady Georgievich and Abdurakhman. It turned out that the caravan could not pass along our route. The caretaker Dudin was called. He left to meet the caravan at four o'clock. From all this one could conclude that the caravan would not arrive today.

At my insistence, Arkady Georgievich went with me to meet the caravan. It's getting dark. Moraine, ice, more moraine, again ice. We go down, shout and shoot continuously. All in vain, no answer. They either didn’t come out at all or went very little.

We are going back, obviously mechanically - we are desperately hungry (we haven’t eaten anything all day). With the moon just shining through the clouds, I find my way and quite successfully. They crowded towards the “coffin” - Arkady Georgievich directly fell down: “I won’t go any further.” I heard answering screams from the top of the glacier, apparently the guys climbed there. He walked along the moraine almost by touch, but mostly on all fours... A figure grew, closer, it turned out to be Abdurakhman.

Ordzhonikidze Peak opened immediately behind the moraine ledge

Where are the guys?

There, Boykov, firewood, tea,” and shows three on his fingers.

On the way back, Abdurakhman leads the way along a barely noticeable path, followed by me and Arkady Georgievich.

Hurray, there's fire below. In Boykov's camp we are met by gloomy figures. My greetings are answered vaguely. Then it turned out: Kyrgyz.

They climbed up the slope, and I went to the very ridge and lay down there. From time to time he stood up and peered into the grandiose roads of the glacier, but all the prominent points remained motionless: the caravan did not appear. It’s a pity that we couldn’t see Communism Peak from here - the nearby ridge was covering it. But Kalinin Peak (6300) is completely open. At two o'clock I went downstairs.

We decided to return to Fedchenko’s language. Arkady Georgievich and the Red Army soldiers took the upper path, agreeing to shoot twice in case they met a caravan. We reached the second ice and... hurray! caravan. So Mikhail Vasilyevich appeared on his faithful horse, followed by others... We greeted him somewhat coldly, demanding an explanation for such a large delay. But they, in turn, attacked us, saying that the road was laid God knows how, that all the horses were crippled and it was good that they got there at all. The arguments, judging by their appearance, are quite solid, there is no need to object. I remembered the Red Army soldiers’ quick run through the most difficult section. Apparently they did too little there!

We had a quick snack on flatbreads with sugar syrup. (One horse with a load of sugar and sweets was swimming in a glacial lake). They fired a volley and went at a trot to correct the remaining, already decently developed section of the road. Large holes were thrown in front of the horses' noses and slopes were dug up. It went well; Only in one place did the horse somersault over its head, get stuck with its foot in the stones and remain in this position until we cut the ropes with the load. It's amazing how the legs remained intact.

We're at the camp. First thing - eat, eat! Canned food of all kinds and rice porridge with meat in conclusion. As soon as you ate your fill, half of your fatigue disappeared! They immediately decided to go hunting.

At about five o'clock we left with backpacks. We are following last year's path. Here is the turn to Bivachny. The peak of Communism opens in all its might. The most difficult part is the detour over the glacial lake: the trail is almost completely gone. Then there is a good road along the coastal moraines.

We agreed: Mikhail Vasilyevich sits in ambush on the ridge with an overview of the left valley and a small glacier, and we are much further, in the moraine pillars. We separated.

It was already getting dark when we arrived at our places. I began the climb to the first pillars, having agreed on places and signaling. Alas, the ambush is not visible from the first pillars, and besides, the same pillar has taken the shape of a mushroom and I don’t want to spend the night under the hat. I climbed to the next colonnade. Not a single suitable place! Only on the third colonnade did I find a knife-shaped comb between two pillars. He worked hard until the ridge turned into a narrow bridge, on which he managed to put a sleeping bag.

The moon brightly illuminates the opposite peaks. I climbed out onto the higher pillars and saw the whole panorama. Amazing picture! True, in the soft light of the moon the peak of Communism lost its grandeur, the perspective disappeared.

I pack with the greatest care. Every movement causes cascades of stones to fall down with a roar. There is nowhere to put the rifle. I put it in my sleeping bag and sleep lightly. Warm.

5'th of July. At dawn I wake up several times. With a sleepy eye I look around the slopes - no one. And I fall asleep again. The sun has already warmed up nicely. I woke up and heard stones lying nearby, and then a voice: “Zhenya! Above the herd. Let's go! " Balancing, I got dressed.

We approach from both sides. Even before the hillock I noticed a goat grazing peacefully. Crouching and sneaking. Does not notice. He lay down about two hundred paces, took aim, but decided that he needed to crawl closer. He almost crawled onto the hill, but only managed to lie down - a shot was fired, followed by a second. The goat started up and ran to the left into the hollow. And from the green hole next to me - a whole herd, about six of them! Another shot, the herd scatters. One kick - straight down, completely past me. I clicked the shutter - the cartridge did not come out! Again and again - all to no avail, he pulled out the ramrod and then just knocked it out. Kiik, meanwhile, disappeared.

I fire quickly after the herd crossing the scree. The bullets fall nearby, only the picks don’t. I see suspicious dust rising in the rocks, then a goat ran out and sharply moved down. Fire at him, but already far away. Everyone disappeared. The hunters return home. A proposal is made - to go see the places where the kiki grazed. Let's see - blood. That means they were wounded. Further along the bloody trail. Suddenly, dust rose in a cloud in the gorge ahead. With all their might they rushed along the scree. As I move, I drive the cartridge straight into the barrel. From the edge they saw: the goat had rolled off the cliff and was lying at the bottom. They came down with rifles at the ready, but there was no need for them anymore - he was dead. There is a wound in the stomach and all the intestines are wrapped around the horns.

They freed the horns and dragged the goat down the gorge. Sometimes he rolled easily on his own, hitting the stones. We left it on the remains of an avalanche in a narrow gorge. The place was marked with a tour. We congratulated ourselves on our luck, distributing half a goat to everyone.

In an hour and a half we reached the “Coffin”. Mikhail Vasilyevich is not here. Well, apparently, he decided not to retreat. Our stories about the hunt delighted Abdurakhman.

It’s already about four, and Misha is not there. We're worried. Did he fall off the cliffs, or maybe the leopard got up? There are a lot of assumptions about the end of the life of the glorious caretaker. We go on a search again, refusing the help of the Red Army soldiers.

A small man suddenly appeared on the way.

Misha! and we have already gone to look for your corpse.

Well, I'm tenacious!

It turned out that we had separated. Op, having heard our firing, went to meet us halfway, and meanwhile we, apparently, were operating with a goat in the gorge. He had been looking for us since midday, and then, slowly, he walked along the road, arranging tours.

We agreed: he will go to the camp, return, and in the meantime we will open the goat’s belly (I took Misha’s fin), and we will meet at the stream, and then we will go to ambush the transshipment.

Leaving our backpacks and rifles by the stream, we walked lightly along the scree to the avalanche dumps. A little before reaching the gorge, we were taken aback, we rubbed our eyes: a goat was hobbling along the faults on broken legs: it would fall, then jump, turn over, fall again. Risen from the dead. Runs around without any guts. What to do? To hit with a knife - the hand does not rise. Stone too. The eyes are huge, sad and intelligent. They decided to tie my legs with my belt. The goat fell down and didn’t get up. They ran downstairs for the rifle, and I climbed up to finally make sure it was the right kick or not. Halfway there I discovered that there was no knife (I dropped it when I was taking off my belt).

Here's the tour. I rise above the cliff and see a horn. Here! Yielding to excitement, he rushed forward and... knocked over a huge stone. He fell on his hand. The pain is brutal. I try to bend it and my fingers bend too: the bones are apparently intact. Leaning on his skinned elbows, he nevertheless climbed in and was convinced that the goat had not been resurrected. So it was the second one. Great! I came down with difficulty. My hand was swollen like a pillow. Dull pain.

The second goat is even larger than the first and, apparently, it was he who first collected dust in the rocks. A little over an hour later we tell an extraordinary story in the camp. Well, now we have meat, we have fulfilled a fifth of the quota.

We lie down, choosing a place with less chance of a rockfall. The moon filled everything with soft light.

July 6. In the morning, the Kyrgyz, Abdurakhman, myself and two Red Army soldiers moved forward. We will lower and gut the goats, and the Red Army men will put the Pass of Five in order.

Abdurakhman, like a seasoned surgeon before an operation, washed his hands thoroughly on the way and, while we were climbing behind the top goat, cut up the bottom one, and then began to work on the lower one. Works smartly! Then - by the horns and dragged down to the bottom, with breaks. The goats are heavy, about five pounds each. They covered them with stones and Abdurahman's jacket.

We approach the pass and see: the Red Army soldiers are developing a completely different path. I had to start over.

Finally, the caravan appeared, noticed, of course, by Abdurahman, who was sent to tell them about the goats. The epic epic has begun. The first horses got up and nothing happened, and then it started! One overturned, followed by another, and the third and fourth were knocked down. The packs fell apart. We had to carry it ourselves. However, everything remained intact, only the jar of fish was crushed, which they ate with gusto, regretting that only one was injured. Later, I was seriously worried about the fate of the altimeter hidden in my bag.

They crashed in one place. Grivka, there is a big tour on it. Mikhail Vasilyevich says that last year the road was going downhill. But Arkady Georgievich assures that he is on horseback. We went on horseback, especially since the guys above didn’t signal, and got caught. Such collapses are terrible, everything ended in a cliff. Daniil Ivanovich shouts: “We need it from below.” Well, where can we go back?

We had to quickly make the road and lead the horses through at great risk. One of them finally broke loose and miraculously escaped on her own two feet. About two hours later, along a good road, we reached the Podgorny camp.

The feast has begun. The goat, sorry for one (the horse didn’t pick up the other one), went into action. The altimeter was intact. We sleep without tents. Warm. The height is about 4000 meters.

July 7. Meeting day. There is an urgent issue about the porters who never show up. There were no fans to go after them again. If they don’t fit, we’ll have to recruit from local forces.

Arkady Georgievich and I settled on the following plan: we go with the Red Army soldiers and Usumbai to Glacier Camp “4600”, looking for a road for the caravan. Then we send the “porters” back, and we ourselves climb onto the shoulder of peak 5600, put up a tent and, if possible, try to climb the ridge and set up a camp at 6200 meters.

We took food for six days, three tents. The weight turned out to be solid.

July 8. At nine o'clock we leave heavily loaded. Red Army soldiers with backpacks made of simple bags, and Usumbai - the height of handicraft - even carries a flask of kerosene in his hands.

We got stuck in the seracs and soon really started climbing. There is no path for horses here. Having walked further, we discovered: there is a detour along the left (orographically) moraine.

From here they split up: Daniil Ivanovich and the Red Army soldier Shibshov went with the right moraine, Arkady Georgievich with the others - the middle one, I - the left one, the most lumpy one. We agreed to meet at the corner of Ordzhonikidze Peak. I didn't have to walk very far to make sure that the caravan wasn't coming here. Frequent moraines covered the steep icy slopes with a thin layer, on which you struggle even with an ice ax, but everything floats from under your feet. There are cracks nearby, there are no bypasses, and there are continuous mounds. On the sides the path is closed by walls and needles of snow-white, wonderfully shaped seracs, with streams flowing in between. I climbed onto a hill, ahead was a depression, a rise, another depression, and then only the desired corner. I’m walking on the edge of the seracs near the stream; ice masses hang over me, ready to collapse. The hands are not left idle: you have to climb on all four limbs. There is a coastal moraine ahead and finally I climbed onto the slopes. I took off my backpack and even ran up the hill - it became easy. I climbed higher, I shouted - there was no answer. Only half an hour later Arkady Georgievich and his “retinue” appeared.

They started making coffee and soup at the lake. Daniil Ivanovich is late for something. We managed to eat and drink to our heart's content, but they were still not there. Let's go meet them. From a high serac I noticed a figure on the other side. We scream. Only after much effort did they make out the phrase: “Let’s go higher” and something else. But this is enough, they are safe and will go higher.

The path between the ice and the slope is difficult: rocks and steep screes, terribly loose, on the one hand, and an ice wall on the other, and below the lakes there is water, cold and deep enough to discourage any desire to swim in it. Barely holding on to the ice axe, we traverse the scree. Red Army soldier Rynkov and Usumbai had to climb God knows where to the rocks in order to get around the damned places. We've fallen behind great. I was waiting for them with a rope: in that sad case if I had to fish them out of the lake. It went easier along moraines and avalanche discharges.

Higher on the slope is a figure, the other is the group of Daniil Ivanovich. I also pulled myself up. It turned out that here they crossed the glacier quite easily, but lower down they were unable to cross due to cracks. We are riding among large landslides. Daniil Ivanovich is lagging behind. And that's the end. A large depression between the scree and the ice. Here is the camp.

Daniil Ivanovich came up, later Arkady Georgievich and in the evening the rest, leaving very strongly. I didn't waste any time and started drawing. Evening. There are two tents. One with a white roof, our future tent, while we sleep without it. Having stripped down to my underpants, I quickly dive into the warm bag. The height is 4400 meters - higher than the “Shelter of Eleven”, but we still don’t feel the height. Temperature - plus 1.5 degrees.

July 9. The temperature is at zero. We slept through the night and didn’t freeze. The “porters” ate and went home. We are in no hurry and leave only at eleven o’clock.

Dispute over how to pass the seracs of the left cirque glacier. We took it to the right. It took us 50 minutes to climb, but we climbed out successfully, almost straight to the ascent. The seracs are beautiful. From a height of 4500 meters we began our ascent to the navel of the semi-hanging glacier. Procedure: 15 minutes walk, 5 minutes rest. During the first transition, walking at a very slow pace, we climbed about 100 meters. They immediately figured out that if we climb even 200 meters per hour, we’ll reach it in about five hours.

Cracks appeared and they were tied together with rope. My sore hand prevents me from inserting the ice ax with the necessary force. We easily climb steep slopes with crampons. We crossed the bridge through a large crack. Above these levels it is no longer noticeable. The problem of bypassing the invisible cornice was solved in favor of bypassing the ice faults on the right (orographically), as Arkady Georgievich suggested, and not between rocks and ice. There is another possible path - along the rocks through the left saddle, but without seeing it, I could not say for sure whether it would lead to the ledge.

Height 5000 meters. More recent discharges have begun, but these, apparently, are ancient - spring. And a huge hanging glacier hangs menacingly from above. We traverse faults. The climb is steeper.

Height 5200 (Elbrus saddle). Transverse cracks. We go around on the right side. The sun disappears behind the gendarme of the peak. At the insistence of Arkady Georgievich, whom I joined, we traverse to the left. We got onto the ledge exceptionally well. My feet are cold. We refresh ourselves and drink, apparently, our last water. Daniil Ivanovich goes first. The left slopes threaten rockfall. The rocks began to appear. Down with the cats and the rope. Me and Daniil Ivanovich are in front. The height makes itself felt: 5400 meters. We often relax. Saddle and semi-talus slope.

We climb out onto the ridge. Height 5600 meters. A little to the right we find a scree between the cornice and the slope, quite wide and convenient. We set to work on the camp site. Arkady Georgievich went further to last year's camp - it turned out to be covered with snow. Quite a lot of work. Two tents stood firmly next to each other at the height of Elbrus.

July 10. Sleep was often interrupted by avalanches. One, apparently, was huge. Daniil Ivanovich says that he wanted to jump out of the tent. In any case, our tents were heavily covered in snow dust. A little snow falls from a cloud stuck at the peak.

Today we decided to go up the mane to the gendarme, examine him - and down. Good climb along the mane and scree along the cornice. They climbed the first small gendarme easily. A snowy ridge next to a rocky one - go wherever is more convenient. The second gendarme, a trifle. Only the third took quite a lot of time, and that was due to clearing extremely loose rock.

Ahead is a snow ridge, interrupted by several more gendarmes, and then a gendarme, and this time no small one both in size and difficulty.

Avalanches rumble very often. Two are especially grandiose. We were covered in snow dust. However, they did not reach our path. They quickly ran back. We lowered the tents and put in them the remaining food, some equipment, a kerosene stove, and an altimeter. They piled all this down with stones and began the descent at five o'clock.

In 25 minutes we passed the rocks, put on our crampons and tied ourselves with a rope and moved along the ledge. Cats are holding well. From the cornice we walked a little lower (I go first) and further along the old road. We straightened the path somewhat with faults, and then successfully bypassed the crack on the right side.

At the seracs we went down a kilometer in 1 hour 25 minutes (and it took about nine hours to go up). The seracs ran briskly, and everyone went their own way. They leveled up great and came out much higher. We climbed to the camp for 35 minutes, and in total, with all stops, two and a half hours.

July 11. Today is a day of rest and journaling. We sit mostly in shorts. It bakes like hell. Amazing panorama. The wonderful shining top of a nearby peak and sparkling grandiose faults. The five bastions of Communism Peak are visible with huge hanging glaciers hanging between them. They stand like the strong foundation of the throne of the peak.

We go out with the intention of looking over the road and spending the night on the other side so that in the morning we can climb the ridge, examine it, and also photograph and sketch Communism Peak.

July, 12. Daniil Ivanovich woke me up. The photographers were worried: the peak, softly lit by the morning sun, was naked. Cold. I really don't want to get up. Daniil Ivanovich has already left. “To hell with it!” - I answer half asleep and get into the bag with my head. I’m mentally trying to justify myself: “Photographers can still take pictures,
Well, drawing in such frost is a little pleasure...” But somehow I felt uneasy. Wearing only his shorts, he quickly jumped out of the bag; It was immediately blown by the wind. I grabbed my shirt - it was wet and covered with frost. My pants were also frozen. Allotment. On top I pulled a powder coat and a storm jacket,
put on shoes. Okay now! I reached the snowfield - it became hot. Quite quickly through the snowfield I reached the inclined slabs. The sun hit brightly - now it’s very hot, and here we still had to seriously climb the smooth slabs. I climbed onto the ridge above the guys - alas, during the ascent the entire peak climbed into the clouds. From the ledge you can clearly see Bivachny with all its final peaks.

We decided to climb a rather large ledge. In a relieved state, they quickly walked along the terribly loose mane. The nearby peak became a rocky obstacle. We traverse to the right on the final icy wall. Suddenly Daniil Ivanovich’s hat jumped off and flew down. It slows down a little and further, further, until it disappears into the sidewalk. Daniil Ivanovich experienced every jump of his only and beloved. We decided to get it on the way back. However, Daniil Ivanovich did not go further out of grief. Having passed through the snowfield, we came across a large gendarme peak. We suffered quite a bit, climbing to the right along the cornice and further along the river.

Vertex! The whole of Bivachny is wonderfully visible. We look at the map - on the left, somewhat separately, the ocher sharp peak of the GPU, behind it is crowned by the large Darvaz circus, then the chain ends with a significant peak, just below the first. The bridge separating the Bivachny valley from Gandhi) (presumably) is clearly visible; to the right there are two peaks: 5400 and 5600 meters. To the north there is again a depression, forming a beautiful, soft-shaped peak from the north-west. The top is connected by a bridge to a large peak, which, unfortunately, is hidden from us by clouds. These two peaks also form a circus with a large falling glacier creeping along our mane. And above the lintel in the distance another beautiful and huge peak is visible. Which? I sat down to drawing.

We came down from the top. We went around the second one on the right, making a dashing traverse of the steep wall. We got out not far from our things. Daniil Ivanovich’s sweater was not found, but I found a note: “I found the hat, I’ll wait downstairs.” So everything is fine.

Descent. They turned right and crashed. From here drops a seemingly harmless snowfield, from which we were planning to move. But upon closer inspection, the slope turned out to be almost icy, and the stone we dropped immediately developed a breakneck speed. In order for us to move out in the same way, we need to have at least the strength of this stone.

We had to climb incredibly loose slabs that almost slid under us, and then traverse the snowfield with ice ax work. Only after descending in not entirely pleasant inclined slabs, we descended into deeper snow and rolled sitting, bouncing on the bumps, to Daniil Ivanovich waiting for us below. Jars of condensed milk and tongue were a pleasant refreshment and added agility for the further descent.

There are big rocks all around, it gets boring to climb on them. At the final icefall we had to do some serious climbing on unpleasant loose rocks. We climbed onto the ice only by cutting down the steps, and after hundreds of rounds we went down. Wonderful view back to Voroshilov Peak. It stands proudly above the gorge, guarded by huge needles of white seracs. Crossing the glacier was not difficult. We quickly ran along the Kiykov trail to the camp.

The feast began in abundance - canned food, kiik (or rather, leftovers, since in our absence they devoured almost everything), coffee, cocoa, and rice porridge with milk.

In the evening, Arkady Georgievich and Daniil Ivanovich moved to the “dacha”, where they were immediately flooded with water from the raging stream. Daniil Ivanovich with a shovel in his hands with a warlike look, without even having time to put on his clothes, rushed up to divert the ill-fated stream. He worked with ardor until the danger had passed.

July 13. First charge at an altitude of 4000 meters. From the opposite side of the lake, Daniil Ivanovich films our leisurely movements in a double projection. Finally, a short run and a swim. Since this is not the Dynamo stadium, even such exercise is a lot of work for the lungs.

Arkady Georgievich invites you to talk to him. Having made ourselves comfortable, we prepared to listen to the boss’s speech. After a short introduction about our successes, he completely switched to the role of boss. Everyone got it. It became sad. In the evening we pitched the tent, but still slept in the wild.

Revolutionary Military Council Peak

the 14 th of July. The sun woke me up with hot rays. A wonderful morning, the lake calmly reflects the majestic snow caps of the peaks. After breakfast, Arkady Georgievich said in a commanding tone, but not very confidently:

Scouts should go on the left side, towards the seracs; Tours will be placed every twenty steps.

We couldn't stand it.

It's impassable there. Need the right side!

Arkady Georgievich immediately agreed, changed the order and we set off to act, of course, at our own discretion.

Work was in full swing. At first there was no need to particularly look for ways - the moraines were good. There was only one place where it was necessary to think about crossing the stream. Then the problem arose: should we go up along the seracs? It’s hardly advisable - there wasn’t even a very good transition before them. Still, I had to look all the way along the seracs and make sure it was impossible to cross. I think the road should be to the right. We'll see again tomorrow.

From a distance they shout: “Finish, we’ve left for lunch.”

I folded another tour, a huge one, and went back. At the camp, Arkady Georgievich was moving the stones apart. In general, the road turned out to be quite good. Only our stone dumpers overdid it: they set up such a palisade of tours that your eyes run wild and you don’t know where to go. For lunch - leftover kayak, then porridge and cocoa (without any enthusiasm). We were given bonuses: a jar of fish. No salt. Rynkov went after her at a gallop on horseback. Half an hour later he returned with a message: a caravan is coming. Which? With whom?

And here is the picture: at the forefront of the caravan is Ivan Georgievich on a white horse, hands on hips and adjutant Belov nearby. The caravan drove in to the sound of fanfare.

July 15. Everyone went out to exercise today, including Ivan Georgievich and Belov. Then - ablution: belly into the mud, and the cold of icy waters into the back. We started printing yesterday's photographs on day-old paper.

Lots of ice axing work. Arkady Georgievich shouted the cry: “Come on, guys, let’s lead the road to the stream!” Again the ice began to ring under the ice axes, and the stones rolled away with a roar. The road is getting long.

In the evening, reading “Eugene Onegin” (at an altitude of 4000 meters). The activity is surprisingly enjoyable. Ivan Georgievich returned only towards darkness. We chat for a long time about the past.

July 16. A trumpet-like, hoarse, intermittent sound woke me up once. Actually, I was no longer sleeping - the sun wakes me up earlier. The battery is fully loaded again. Even Usumbai in long johns is following us. Ivan Georgievich is clearly dissatisfied with the morning restlessness and is in favor of reducing the charging rate.

And the weather is amazing. A few clouds just settled on the peak of Communism and the peak of Ordzhonikidze. The sun is burning. Quiet. The blue of the sky is deep, the peaks are bright and strong in white.

This time it was decided to go laying the road after lunch. I took up watercolors. I brought the dried paints into the system and, having estimated in advance (like Delacroix), quickly sketched out a decent sketch of the lower valley.

We dined without salt, saving ourselves with canned food. Five of us work. They paved a road through the stream and further into the depths of the last moraine. I was assigned the specialty of intelligence officer.

The peak of the GPU is beautiful. Apparently made of marble, ocher-warm. It runs upward with powerful Gothic towers and pointed arches. It’s decided - I’ll take the album tomorrow.

Evening. We finish reading “Eugene Onegin”; even Arkady Georgievich came to listen.

July 17th. Charger. Then splashes and screams. Breakfast. I sketched a general view of the camp. Before lunch, take a second refreshing swim.

After lunch, having rested, we go to work. We are heading up the last moraine.

I am passionately drawing the peak of the GPU. And closer and to the left is another peak, no less interesting, especially in terms of its richness of colors. For a long time they assigned him various names and settled on the name Menzhinsky. I made another quick but successful sketch - a view from the coastal moraine.

July 18. Morning work-out. Usumbayka quickly takes off her shirt and runs into the line; a zealous sportsman is ready to plow the earth with his nose. Another swim. Only Arkady Georgievich refused: he had bad dreams - and he dissuades others from swimming.

The road reached ridge-like moraines. I'm running forward again. I look - the transition is close. Yeldash turned out to be a zealous worker. We finished work, climbed up a moraine hill, we sat, the road winding towards our feet.

Today, according to Arkady Georgievich’s calculations, a caravan should arrive. Tomorrow, with the caravaners, we will pave the way to the Grivka. The day after tomorrow the caravan sets off along a new road, and in the meantime we are building it further. Then a new foray to an altitude of 5600 meters and laying a path to 6200 meters.

These are plans, but the facts are different: the caravan “did not come” in the evening. Clear signs of worsening weather. It was heavy in the east. The clouds came from the south. Still, they decided to lie down in freedom. As soon as we fell asleep, lightning illuminated the sky for a particularly long time, and it began to rain. Panic. With a felt felt, short fur coats, sand, stones and wet sleeping bags, we move into the tent. The rain pattered on the roof.

July 19. Damp. The clouds settled low. There is a puddle in the tent. Without getting out of our bags, we have breakfast. It's already late. The clouds parted a little, the sun warmed us and dried our things. The day is disrupted, there is no exercise. It's almost lunchtime, and we just got up. They still went to work and paved an excellent path with Eldash. And I found the transition, set up a large formation of tours. Clouds rush in a stormy stream low over the camp, enveloping the foothills of the mountains. (Complete resemblance to Misses-kosha.)

The chief offered us a half-Danish tent. There are just no sticks. We took sticks from two of Schuster's tents, made them up, and, with some effort, set up the tent on the rocks.

At the housewarming party, on the grass, near the tent, spreading out the bags, we drink cocoa and have a long conversation about our craft, about our associates, honored and ordinary, young and old.

Night. Can't sleep. Hordes of bright stars twinkle in the twilight. Having beautifully cut through half the arch, a shooting star flashes and fades.

Fell asleep. And suddenly it started dripping on me. I wait patiently. But the drops are getting bigger. Apparently, there is no avoiding the tent. We moved into it, and the rain began to drum even harder.

21 July. I went with the album into the couloir, to the glacier. And soon the album contained a trace of both the hanging glacier and the light ghostly peaks.

Today we did a great job again. They dug up the entire ridge of moraines, drove the road almost to the descent and returned in the dark.

Bad weather is turning again, snow is falling. A lit lantern illuminates a tent, sleeping bags, two figures and a volume of Pushkin with the history of Grinev.

I decided to climb higher and sketch powerful ridges from above. At first I easily climb the grassy slopes, along the first hairline. There are steep screes and my foot is slipping. I move along the Kiich paths, carefully feeling my way. I’ve been walking for an hour now, and the nearest ridge is still there. But mountains and glaciers lie below me, and ahead is an immense panorama.

What wonderful masses, white as mother-of-pearl, and below threatening dark massifs bulge, glaciers slide into the gorge and in the depths, rivers sparkle like a scaly snake among the black rocks. The peak of Communism rises in overwhelming proportions. To the right, with a white pyramid, is Ordzhonikidze Peak, then Voroshilov Peak, next to the beautiful wall of the Red Army. What peak above the chain raised its head? Unfamiliar, but majestic! The pencil has become dull. But not in vain - I will take your images, peaks, to Moscow.

On the way back, I turned to the right and rushed down. Dust, noise, roar, you barely have time to work with your feet and protect your head from the stones. So he jumped to the bottom. Downstairs I hasten to take off my shoes; they look pathetic! Covered in dust, I run to the stream, and then to lunch.

Lunch has not yet finished, and Daniil Ivanovich is already in a hurry to lead the way to the descent (and there is a lot of work even before the descent!). I went ahead, ran, looking for a passage between the seracs. I found it and we set up a tour. They rolled stones. The transition has been installed. Finished late. The way back is long. After an hour, the meanders lead to a steep moraine and a camp.

For dinner, delicious porridge and tea with chocolate, in the evening three chapters from The Captain's Daughter and sleep.

July 23. The charging has clearly gone wrong. Only two remained. But we diligently do exercises over the lake for everyone. All our movements are reflected in the water.

The rocks beckon. Let's go shoot and sketch. Higher and higher. Feet tread carefully. The wall blocked the path, but hands come to the rescue - and the wall is conquered. The breed is terribly loose. The wind is tearing at the mane so much that you can hardly stand. The sound of falling stones. They fly like missiles. Noise, dust! We return back, maneuvering through unsteady rocks. One wall made us spin around quite a bit.

The camp is lively. Usumbai arrived and brought news from the detachment: in the distance he saw a caravan, and in front of it were five people. Speculation and speculation began and preparations for the meeting began.

Noise, talk, stories, questions. Porters and caravan drivers go to the camp in a crowd, among them Abdurahman.

Well, Kolya, how are the bottles? Did you bring it?

You know, guys, the bottles broke and ruined all the things. I only delivered two...

We are happy with this too. Banquet in the evening. Appetizer: cheese, sausages, cognac poured into cups. The first toast to achieving heights, to the friendly team. The eyes are shining. Kolya is already singing a romance. Noise, laughter.

A new line of tents has grown up.

July 24. Everything went back to normal. In the morning the trumpet sounds for exercise. Abdurakhman calls all the porters. Tajiks have more than enough zeal. Arms flashed, torsos bent, straightened, left, right, leg up, deep squats, running with a light step and, at the end, a cheerful splash in the lake.

Today we are resting. We sort our things and little by little get ready for the journey. I took up drawing. In the evening the wind blows and forces you to hastily renew your new cotton pants; they swell. Not a climber, but a redhead in a circus, but pleasantly warm. I get a pair of down mittens, warm underwear, and a backpack. Laughter from behind. The costumes put everyone in a cheerful mood: everyone has their own original cut. Kolya is especially funny.

The training camp is basically finished. Tomorrow - on a long journey along Bivachny.

July 25. He raised his head. The camp is illuminated by the slanting rays of the sun. Climb. Turmoil. We still need to pack some things, have breakfast and go ahead, without waiting for the caravan, to prepare the road. The face of the road has changed: a bridge has been destroyed here, a piece of soil has floated there, a hole here has opened up here
ice. We are moving forward to complete the unfinished section. Time passed quickly. A caravan caught up with us.

Here is the pass. Although we worked together, he delayed us for two hours. Supporting the horses at the turns, we brought them successfully to the top. Then everything went well, only one horse’s leg got stuck. The horse had skinned its belly and legs - it was barely alive. By the way, Maslov and I were in time. They loaded the entire load onto themselves and dragged it up. Horses were pulled by their tails.

It was already the second half of the day when we descended into the basin. There, near the lake, we stopped for rest and overnight. After dinner, they lay down in two lines and, after a difficult journey, quickly fell silent. I read Mayakovsky aloud, but soon discovered that everyone was asleep. He climbed into the bag, warmed up and fell asleep.

26 July. The sun shines brightly and drives away sleep. Charging at the stream. Then swim and have a nice breakfast. We lifted our backpacks onto our shoulders and marked the road again. The aurochs are growing, the stones are rolling. The transition is close, but it is not yet clear where it will be. Finally Daniil Ivanovich finds him. You just need to cut in one place, fill up the holes and create a passage between large seracs. We cut down a piece of steep ice between the seracs, cut out steps on it and sprinkle everything with small moraine stones.

But the most difficult thing is the ice bridge. There's a lot of cutting here! A huge stone, with difficulty moved from its usual place, flies into the water and sticks out of the lake like an island. I diligently knocked halfway through the ice, but the ice ax could not withstand the load - the handle broke. However, the bridge turned out to be spectacular!

We hasten to lead the way to him. We move large stones and fill holes. Daniil Ivanovich is dissatisfied that we are wasting forces that we will need later. But the caravan is already moving, and talk is useless.

We quickly run among the seracs to finish the descent. And now, stretched by the tail and the reins, the first horse safely crosses the bridge, gliding among the seracs and stopping its progress on the moraine. Behind her is another (I hold it tightly by the tail) - no less successful. So, one by one, everyone. The path further is no longer difficult.

The first ridge of seracs. We take it easily. Morena again. We walk along it and... a new crossing! Again I hold the horse’s tail, she slides, and I follow her, maneuvering and grabbing Daniil Ivanovich’s hands. Funny picture. But still the horses were taken out.

The last moraine. We go up easily. One small transition and we can consider ourselves “home”. We hastily clear the last winding path among the moraine swell.

We are pleased with the success. On horseback to the very peak! We're glad we got over the road. On this occasion they threw a feast. Wonderful evening. The wind died down and it was very warm. We sleep in the old place - on the platform, among the stones. The stars are shining brightly. Everything was plunged into darkness. Only the roar of avalanches often breaks the silence of the night.

July 27. Life goes on as usual. Exercise in the morning. We break the ice in the lake and pour ice water from cups, which grabs the heart and burns, but at the same time adds energy and vigor and stimulates the appetite.

The caravan is already approaching. It went well. Joyful screams. Everyone is happy. Yakshi!

The camp is again busy with the layout. Banks, ladders, ropes, bags, backpacks, kungan. Everywhere there is picturesque chaos - a prelude to hiking.

July 28th. The guys rush in a crowd to the seracs and there they give the Tajiks their first mountaineering lessons.

The seracs sparkle with brilliance. On one of them, like a flower on a stem, people are swarming. The sound of ice is heard, steps are being cut, ropes are being pulled, and the Tajiks are descending from the serac into the depths, straining their arms, piercing their crampons into the ice. Brave guys! Abdurakhman slipped more than once, but straightened up and did not cower. I finished the climb by “doing a spectacular climb and descent for the watering can.” Kolya was worried, but as a result, they didn’t take it off. He was terribly unhappy.

By evening, all preparations were completed. The guys are showing it again, and this time the results are decent.

The spectacle is impressive: six climbers and six porters stretch out in a chain, maneuvering along the moraine. In seracs, as always, we get confused. From here we saw a huge avalanche that filled the entire couloir, half of the glacier. Snow dust flew through the mane. The avalanche made an overwhelming impression on the porters.

They tied up, put on their crampons and stretched out in single file. The first couple, led by Arkady Georgievich, takes a very slow pace, so they decided to reduce the rest, making Transitions for half an hour. The second couple is Kolya and Vitya. Kolya intensively leads Vitya, observing the zigzag theory beyond measure. Then come two

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Drivers of the expeditionary motor depot of the USSR Academy of Sciences. “On approval of the instructions “On the procedure for organizing and conducting scientific expeditions in the Academy of Sciences of the USSR

Garin “essays on the history of the Domodedovo land”

USSR Klim Degtyarev Alexander Kolpakidi

Egor Ivanovich Karatov (b. 1795), daughter Evdokia Egorovna (b. 1823), born in 1851 (married to Daniil Efimovich Ermakov (illegal

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A. N. Strizhev The sixth volume of the Complete Works of St. Ignatius Brianchaninov contains his outstanding work “Fatherland,” a treasury of edification and teaching of the Holy Fathers. The book teaches the fear of God, smart attentive

Public transport - governing bodies EXPEDITIONAL VEHICLE BASE OF THE AUTOMOBILE DEPARTMENT OF AFFAIRS MANAGEMENT OF THE RUSSIAN Academy of Sciences in Chertanovo Central

EXPEDITIONAL VEHICLE BASE OF THE AUTOMOBILE DEPARTMENT OF AFFAIRS MANAGEMENT OF THE RUSSIAN ASSUMPTION