Is there life on Yamal? How life is in the closed rotational camp of Sabetta in the far north. What's a day like in the tundra?

I recently talked about the Taborny rotation camp, which is located in Yakutia http://zavodfoto.livejournal.com/5513550.html and, you know, received a lot of responses. Therefore, when I found myself in Yamal, I decided to continue this story. So, geographically, our rotational camp of Sabetta is located approximately 4.5 km to the southeast along the coast Kara Sea in the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug beyond the Arctic Circle. Winter here lasts almost eight months, and the ongoing Yamal LNG project is certainly a source of pride for our country. So what conditions do people live there?

2. You can only get to Sabetta by plane, although there are options by water, but since cruise ships they don’t look here, but only cargo ships, then I think this option should not be seriously considered. And this is what the local airport looks like, and it has International status. And on February 8, 2017, it was recognized as the winner of the award in the category “Best Airport 2016” (category “Airport regional significance”, less than 0.5 million passengers per year). In the ranking among all Russian airports last year, it took 56th place, and its passenger traffic amounted to 239,744 people.

Sabetta International Airport is one of the world's largest northern airports. It is capable of receiving almost all types of aircraft. For example, most recently it received the largest An-124 Ruslan aircraft with cargo from China. The airport complex includes an airfield that meets ICAO category I requirements, a runway measuring 2704x46 m, hangars for aircraft, a service and passenger building, including an international sector. The 100% owner of the airport is the Yamal LNG company.

An international airport at this latitude was built in Russian practice first. The first Boeing 737 passenger plane landed here on December 4, 2014, but this was still the first test flight. Regular flights began to operate on February 2, 2015. Now there is regular communication from here to five Russian cities.

5. We stayed at this hotel on the territory of the rotation camp.

6. You can safely sing praises about the number, there’s even free Wi-Fi, and we bloggers don’t need anything else...

Let me remind you that the name of the village of Sabetta was given by geologists from the Tambey NGRE, who came here in the 80s of the last century. There are several versions why Sabetta. According to one of them, the name of the village comes from the name of the trading post that existed here, “Sovetskaya,” converted into Nenets. According to another version, it comes from the name of the local Samoyed clan who lived in the area - the Sabe clan. The third version is that Sabetta is the name of a woman’s headdress (in the Nenets language).

Most of the buildings here are prefabricated block buildings that were manufactured in Vologda. At the same time, a unique insulation was also developed, thanks to which all buildings can easily withstand temperatures down to minus 65 degrees. Therefore, winter is not at all scary here.

16. Trinity Church in the village of Sabetta.

18. It is clear that the working conditions here are not simple, and after work there is not much fun, there is a snowy desert to the right and left. But even in such a situation, the employer finds ways out.

19. For example, here is a wonderful gym.

21. Where are your interest groups...

22. I also sat down here a couple of times so as not to “fall out” from sports uniform, because I haven’t been to the gym for a whole week)))

All ours Yamal LNG history:

ZAVODFOTO – Marching across the country! – RUSSIAN ENERGY SECTOR: http://zavodfoto.livejournal.com/2133307.html

“Perm region - We have something to be proud of!”: http://zavodfoto.livejournal.com/1823939.html

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And photographer Sergei Poteryayev visited Yamalo-Nenets District, where we observed changes in the lives of indigenous peoples.

It so happened that in Lately We practice photography with a certain ethnic slant and therefore pay attention to what other photographers and journalists are doing in this area.

The overwhelming majority of the material viewed and read concerned, as a rule, the exotic life of small nations.

But we invariably asked the question: “Where is the line beyond which any ethnic group mixes with the rest of the people, accepts all the values ​​of society, how to find and consider this line itself?”

In the era of globalization, the problem of coexistence of cultures and civilizations is acute. Developing countries with their expanding economies and industries, they are gradually penetrating into territories traditionally inhabited by people of other cultures.

In Russia, these processes are especially evident in the north-west of the country, where the development of new territories continues to this day.

All this invariably entails interference in the lives of indigenous peoples, disrupting their traditional way of life, which, in turn, leads to the slow extinction of their cultures. Today, one part of the indigenous peoples of the North continues their traditional way of life - reindeer herding and fishing, while the other begins to master a “sedentary”, “European” life in cities and towns.

In this regard, it appears new form life of the cultures historically inhabiting this region, which this moment practically not studied. The process of transition from traditional to modern lifestyle is constantly evolving.

It is important to record the stages of transition of indigenous peoples to “urban” life, to capture the moment when ethnic characteristics and benefits modern society begin to coexist and become equally valuable to humans.



A good example of interaction is the emergence of so-called “national” villages, where indigenous residents are provided with a house, educational program and medical assistance.

At the same time, the historical inhabitants of these places can safely engage in traditional crafts in the tundra, if necessary, taking advantage of the various benefits of civilization.

The important point is that the state preserves the traditions of the peoples and has the opportunity to export reindeer herding and fishing products abroad.

Local residents have the opportunity to receive quality healthcare and keep up with the world technical progress. The telephone and television have already become firmly established in the lives of peoples living in natural conditions.

Nevertheless, most “nationals,” as the Russians call them, cannot imagine their lives without the tundra.

"I want my son to know what the Internet and TV are, but if he chooses to live in the city, it will be the most great grief for me,” says Vitaly Pyak, senior reindeer herder of herd No. 3, about his son Yura.

Vitaly Pyak, Nenets, 30 years old, born and lives at the “Herd No. 3” camp, senior reindeer herder.

The city of Tarko-Sale was chosen for the study - administrative center Purovsky district Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug.

The population of the city is over 20 thousand people.

Tarko-Sale is a typical representative of small oil towns, where people live side by side Russian population and indigenous peoples of the North.

It is in such territories that one can see how the modern way of life intertwines with traditional way of life indigenous peoples of the North.

The average annual temperature of the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug reaches -10°C.

Aivasedo Ruslan, Nenets, 32 years old, born and lives at the “Herd No. 3” camp, reindeer herder.

Pyak Vladislav, Nenets, 21 years old, born and lives in the city of Tarko-Sale, unemployed. Vladislav recently returned from the army, he served, as usual in our country, at the other end of Russia - in the Caucasus.

Kazymkina Liliya, Nenka Selkup, 47 years old, born in the village of Khalyasavey, lives in the city of Tarko-Sale, fisherman. Pyak Svetlana, Nenk-Khanty, 37 years old, born in the village of Khalyasavey, lives in the city of Tarko-Sale, housewife. Pyak Alina, Nenka, 7 years old, born and lives in the city of Tarko-Sale, schoolgirl.

Kharampur is a national village with a population of over 700 inhabitants.

Brick houses were built here, reminiscent in shape of a Nenets tent.

Kharampurians live between the tundra and civilization, constantly moving between the two worlds.

This way of life, according to some Nenets, is the best answer to the question “what to do with the indigenous people?” After all, as you know, the North is harsh at any time of the year - crazy cold and winds in winter, clouds of insects and swamps in summer - living in the bare tundra is very difficult. Therefore, the opportunity to spend part of your life in comfortable conditions very important for the Nenets.

In the photo, Kunina’s sisters are Selkup.

There is some tension between the Selkups and the Nenets, it can be felt in conversations. They explained this to us by the fact that there was once a war between the peoples, the winners of which, according to the Nenets, were the Nenets, and according to the Selkups, the Selkups. However, the Nenets' argument is more convincing - their numbers are greater today.

Pyak Aumakh, Nenets, 72 years old, born in the village of Vyngapur, lives in the city of Tarko-Sale, pensioner.

Aivasedo Victoria, Nenka, 17 years old, born and lives in the village of Kharampur, schoolgirl. Aivasedo Lyubov, Nenka, 68 years old, born and lives in the village of Kharampur, retired. Olga Aivasedo, Nenka, 35 years old, born and lives in the village of Kharampur, watchman.

Ledkov Sergey, Nenets, 38 years old, born in the city of Naryan-Mar, lives in the city of Tarko-Sale, master of applied art. Ledkova Snezhana, Nenka, 6 years old, born and lives in the city of Tarko-Sale, goes to kindergarten . Tadibe Diana, Nenka, 31 years old, born in the village of Tazovsky, lives in the city of Tarko-Sale, employee of the personnel department of the center of national cultures.

Wedding photo of Sergei and Diana Ledkov. This family is representatives of the Nenets intelligentsia, they rely only on their own strength in everything and do not use state help for the indigenous people. small peoples North.

Many representatives of the indigenous peoples of the North are at a crossroads between the traditional way of life and the “European” one.

The Nenets are divided into tundra and forest people; they speak different dialects and do not understand each other.

Some of the Nenets in the Purovsky region remained pagans, some became Orthodox, some became Baptists, and some perceived Christian saints as additional gods of the pagan pantheon.

In general, the topic of faith is very intimate for small nations; they are frightened by cruel Orthodox and Soviet persecution. Now, all that can be learned is fragmentary information and well-known facts; as soon as the conversation begins to touch on something deeper and more real, the topic immediately changes.

Aivasedo Sergey, Nenets, 56 years old, born and lives in the village of Kharampur, fisherman. Volov Vladimir, Nenets, 7 years old, born and lives in the village of Kharampur, schoolboy. Aivasedo Christina, Nenka, 7 years old, born and lives in the village of Kharampur, schoolgirl. Fateeva Anna, Nenka, 5 years old, was born and lives in the village of Kharampur, goes to kindergarten.

Andreeva Anna, Mansi, 49 years old, born in the village of Sartynya, lives in the city of Tarko-Sale, teacher.

Pyak Valentina, Nenka, 8 years old, born in the camp "Lake Chebachka", lives in the village of Kharampur, schoolgirl. Aivasedo Gulnara, Nenka, 9 years old, born in the Bear Mountain camp, lives in the village of Kharampur, schoolgirl.

Members of the tourist club, Nenets, city of Samburg.

9th grade at a boarding school in Tarko-Sale. Pupils are housed in separate blocks according to their relationship, that is, only brothers and sisters live nearby. This principle helps to preserve traditions to a certain extent, but children are still isolated from their parents for too long and, after finishing school, no longer want to return to the tundra.

According to the 2010 All-Russian Population Census, the following people lived in our country: Nenets - 44,640 people, Khanty - 30,943 people, Mansi - 12,269 people, Selkups - 3,649 people.

The overwhelming number of Nenets in the region have the surnames Pyak and Aivasedo, which translates as “Wooden” and “Headless”.

The fact is that in the first half of the 20th century (the year the district was founded in 1933), two families roamed here - Pyak and Aivasedo.

Traveling around Yamal is very difficult, mainly few people federal roads, winter roads, and, of course, helicopters.

Most parts of the peninsula can only be reached by sky, especially in the off-season and summer.

Ilya Makarov, Khanty, 43 years old, born in the village of Evri-Gort, lives in the city of Tarko-Sale, trainer national species sports.

Pyak Antonina, Nenka, 39 years old, born in the village of Khalyasavey, lives in the city of Tarko-Sale, seamstress. Kazymkina Larisa, Nenka, 40 years old, born in the village of Khalyasavey, lives in the city of Tarko-Sale, fur processor.

Kunina-Sankevich Svetlana, Selkup, 49 years old, born in the village of Tolka, lives in the city of Tarko-Sale, director.

    Samuel Colt receives the first US patent for a 6-shot 45-caliber revolver. After 10 days, Colt opens its own production. The model was first called “Paterson” after the city where Colt’s manufactory was located, but soon received the name “Texas” for its popularity among the residents of this state.

    Source: calend.ru

    The first of the famous lotteries took place in Belgium. According to historians and linguists, the word “lottery” comes from the Frankish “hlot”, which means “lot”. Then it shortened and became the English “lot”, which means “share”. Special bones for casting lots were found in ancient Assyrian and ancient Egyptian burials. In Europe official history The lottery began with a drawing organized in Bruges (Belgium) by the widow of the artist Jan Van Eyck on February 24, 1466, on the 25th anniversary of her husband’s death. Anyone who bought a ticket could try their luck to receive a cash prize. The collection was intended for the urban poor.

    Source: calend.ru

    Defender of the Fatherland Day in Russia. Today, for some people, the holiday of February 23 remains the day of men who serve in the army or in any security forces. However, the majority of citizens of Russia and countries former USSR tend to view Defender of the Fatherland Day not so much as the anniversary of the victory or the Birthday of the Red Army, but as the Day of Real Men. Defenders in the in a broad sense this word. And for the majority of our fellow citizens this is an important and significant date. It should also be noted that on this day they congratulate not only men, but also women - veterans of the Great Patriotic War, women military personnel. Among the traditions of the holiday that have survived to this day are honoring veterans, laying flowers at memorable places. As well as holding holiday concerts and patriotic events, organizing fireworks in the hero cities of Russia.

    Source: calend.ru

    International Day of Support for Victims of Crime. Nowadays, a number of countries have adopted and are in force laws aimed at protecting victims of criminal acts, their social rehabilitation, compensation for material and moral damage. There are up to 200 crime victim assistance programs around the world. Starting from assistance programs for victims of sexual violence and ending with municipal services for crime scene cleaners and locksmiths who insert locks and repair entrance doors for free in the event of a burglary. Such programs really help people cope with stress, get out of the crisis, and finally, they simply provide financial assistance and moral support.

    Source: calend.ru

    World Tour Guide Day. Currently, guides are trained by universities with specializations in “tourism” and “tour guide and museology.” Act as guides educated people, often even having a scientific degree. Two more indispensable conditions are knowledge of the basics of psychology and correct speech.

The village of Seyakha on the Yamal Peninsula was home to Pavel Batuev from Soligorsk and his family for five years. Pavel was involved in heat supply to the northernmost settlement of Yamal with permanent population. For what? I wanted adventure. And money.

I always wanted to go north

As a child, I saw on TV how the tundra was blooming, and I was very impressed by these landscapes: empty, and then - nothing! - and everything is in flowers, very quickly.
And then I met a girl through VKontakte. When we met offline, we started talking, and she said that her mother works in the north. I then half-jokingly said: “That’s it, let’s call your mom and go north together”. We laughed, and then everything started spinning...

My contract at work has ended, and I say: "Seriously, let's go". Her mother agreed on everything. I already had tickets in hand, but two weeks later they called from my intended place of work and said that, unfortunately, there was no place for me. We went anyway. This was in August 2012. Only the wife knew her place of work. When I arrived, I went to the most promising employer, and stayed there.

Alcohol career

The interview was quite funny. I took all the diplomas and certificates that I had accumulated throughout my life: from the certificate of an elevator maintenance foreman to a certificate of completion of a two-year Polish course. He shook this pile onto the director’s table, he swept it aside and asked:

Do you drink?
- If this is an offer, then we can have a drink! - I laughed it off.
- Not a drunk?
- No.

“You can say that my entire career was built thanks to alcohol, but not because I drank, but because someone else drank.”

And he sent me to register with the HR department. I was glad that I found a job so quickly, and only at the door I asked who I would work as.

You will be the foreman of the heating supply section,” he says.
- I'm an electrical engineer!
- I don't care. If you mess up, I’ll fire you, and you won’t find work in the village. Agree?
- If there are no other options, then I agree.

A little later I found out that I was hired as a foreman, because... head of the section ( most interesting person, by the way) was just on a drinking binge. A year later I became the head of the site. And a year later - also acting chief engineer. So we can say that my entire career was built thanks to alcohol, but not because I drank, but because someone else drank.

On the first day you go out in shorts, on the second - in a jacket

First impressions of the north were twofold. Firstly, we traveled by train from Moscow. You go from the imperial splendor to the outback and see stops, where sometimes you even find residential buildings made from sleepers.

On the first day you go out onto the platform in shorts, on the second - in a jacket and pants, and your body asks what nonsense. We arrived in Labytnangi, and then moved to Salekhard. From the center of one city to the center of another city is 15 kilometers. We need to cross the Ob River, but there is no bridge. Ferries run all the time, even for trucks.

When I walked around Salekhard for the first time - a town with a population of 50,000 people - I felt slightly depressed. It’s August, but it’s already cold, there are mosquitoes, and the air is such that it’s warmer in Belarus in October. You feel: this is no joke, this is the north.

In general, the town is quiet, and even after Soligorsk, which is only 2 times larger, you walk around and think: what a hole! And then you fly for four hours in a helicopter and see a real hole.

Seyakha village: houses on stilts, instead of sidewalks there are heating main boxes

At first it seemed to me that this was some kind of quest; for the first two months I carried money with me for a return ticket. The village has changed a lot since I was there, but the first impression is "Oh come on!".

It looks like an urban village. Mostly the private sector, but there were also two-, three- and even one four-story buildings. All houses are on stilts, each has a heating main in a wooden box. This box is also a sidewalk. It’s just that you can’t approach many houses on the ground, because there’s a swamp there, and you’ll drown in all this shit up to your knees. Sometimes in literally. Although, of course, most houses had sewerage.
Dirt everywhere, autumn fogs. We were given official housing... and it was an iron barrel (standard housing during the active development of the Far North, quite popular and still in use). Before that, it was given to a man who was going to make repairs, managed to turn everything around, get drunk, and fly out of work.

I walked in and as soon as I saw the front of the work, my legs gave way. But in 2-3 months we made repairs, I took advantage of my official position - they overhauled the heating and water supply system, made a normal toilet and shower inside. The heating was even a little overdone, and in winter we had to open the doors to ventilate.

There are playgrounds, but they are covered with snow

We arrived in August, and literally in September my wife became pregnant. It so happened that the children were born while we were on vacation in Belarus: both a son and a daughter. When we returned to Yamal, our son was 4 months old, and our daughter was a month old.

The children adapted normally. When they ask me how we could go there with them, I answer: almost 2000 people live there, who, like ordinary people, make and give birth to children. Of course, the conditions are more severe, but everything is not as scary as it seems
Why is it difficult with children? There are playgrounds, but sometimes there is so much snow that there are actually none. Well, at -30, -40 they are of no use in any case.

In Belarus you can choose: for example, take your child to a butterfly exhibition. He will be interested for half an hour and will remember it for another two weeks. There is nothing like this in the north, and key factor- weather.

I crawled to work so as not to be blown away by the wind

“I realized that there is no such thing as cold weather, only inappropriate clothing.”

The weather is sometimes very hardcore: -40 degrees - and you can’t go out with the children, you wait until it warms up to -25 or -30 °C. And there may be a snowstorm. A blizzard in the north is not a nice blizzard with wind.

The wind howls so that you can’t hear anything but it, it’s blocking your ears. It can be so strong that I, a man over 100 kilograms, cannot walk, it knocks me off my feet. There was a time when I was crawling to work - not figuratively, but literally. I couldn't get up.

It's not funny: the snow cuts your face, sometimes quite painfully. Snow falls on the forehead, melts and flows onto the eyelashes and eyebrows, instantly freezing. Sometimes the wind is such that you feel like you’re sticking your head out of a car at speed, and it’s impossible to breathe normally: you either need to cover your face or sit down.

Every year someone freezes

Visibility due to snow may be 2-4 meters. You can get lost right in the village. You can’t see where you’re going at all, there are no landmarks. It covers its tracks in a couple of tens of seconds. A couple of times I got lost in the elements and came across a heating main, so I crawled along it until I realized where I was.

The snow in the north is very interesting: if it falls all night in the frost, it seems to bake together and you don’t fall through. You walk and hear that it is empty inside. But during a snowstorm you can fall knee-deep or waist-deep, and after a kilometer of travel with such obstacles there will be no dry place left for you.

“The wind howls so that you can’t hear anything except it, it’s blocking your ears. It can be so strong that I, a man over 100 kilograms, cannot walk, it knocks me off my feet.”

Of course, this can be dangerous. Every year someone freezes to death. Last winter there was a prolonged snowstorm - for 8 days (with short breaks, literally an hour or two). In the vicinity of the village, 5-6 people died, including a 3-year-old child. Strange cases: a husband and wife went on a trip and their snowmobile stalled 10 kilometers from the village. The husband went for help, but the snowstorm got worse, and they simply did not find this woman. And she waited and died.

One person lost limbs. I froze when the snowmobile stalled. I’m not sure that we can say that he was lucky, but if he had been found an hour or two later, he would hardly have survived at all. In short, the climate is not for the weak.

Moss, cloudberries and northern lights for locals

The place where I was was the northernmost residential area in Yamal with a permanent population. Further on there are only two rotational camps and the indigenous inhabitants of the tundra. I think there is nothing for tourists to do there. Tourism exists where you can see something in a concentrated way. But not in the north, the tundra - open space, where moss, cloudberries and bushes grow.

It’s not a fact that you will come and see. It can be very different. The first time it disappointed me - there was something static in the sky, like a greenish fog, nothing moved there, nothing shimmered. If I had come specifically and seen this nonsense, I would have regretted the money spent. And a helicopter, which flies twice a week and for which it is not so easy to buy tickets, costs $150, a room in a local hotel costs $90.

But sometimes you stand with open mouth. There were such radiances that I can say: I have never seen anything more beautiful in my life. Heavenly photoshop, and there are not enough words to describe it all. It can last for hours, or it can disappear in a couple of seconds. You grab your camera to run out and take pictures, but... there’s nothing in the sky anymore.

Flying back and forth and just seeing a village in the north cannot be called tourism. Let’s just say that the money spent may turn out to be completely disproportionate to the impressions received (but I’m talking specifically about the village where I spent five years - it’s quite possible to find more budget options to see Yamal). If someone has friends, they come fishing. It is actually different: both the fish and its quantity.

Local minibus - helicopter, car - snowmobile

How is the transport there? Officially, you can only get there by helicopter, where it’s not so easy to buy a ticket, and it doesn’t fly every day. If you are in Salekhard and there are no tickets for a regular helicopter, then there is a chance to get on a transfer if someone doesn’t show up. My anti-record is 9 days of waiting for a helicopter.

But living there, you gradually acquire acquaintances, and those acquaintances have access to people working at the airport. And you can call the director or someone else and ask: “Is there any passing flight in that direction?” This is not entirely legal, but in all my time I have flown three times without a ticket: for example, if there is a medical flight for a sick person who cannot be treated on the spot.

Those who live permanently in the village use snowmobiles. From a car (if it is not a car with tires low pressure) there is no particular benefit, you can only drive it around the village. There are special all-terrain vehicles on low-pressure wheels - trekols, but they are quite expensive. You can ride them both in winter and summer.

Who is not a Nenets is Russian

How are visitors treated? A little interethnic tension is felt, but rather in private conversations. It doesn't turn into a fight or anything like that.
Approximately 80% of the village's population are Nenets. There are people who were born in it, and there are those who moved from the tundra. The Nenets proved to me that for them, anyone who is not a Nenets is Russian. They tried to call me and even one Armenian employee Russian. Although he has the face of a classic Caucasian.

There is, of course, some envy. It can be difficult for locals to understand why you came in large numbers and now you have a job, a good salary and official housing, but he, a local, doesn’t have all this. I answered this briefly: “If there was someone here with the appropriate qualifications, education, and not a drunkard, of course they would have hired him, not me. However, this is not my problem.".

Do they consider themselves part of Russia? In this regard, it’s a little strange: on the one hand, they like to emphasize that they are Nenets and that this is their land. But during sports competitions they repeat something like: “Russian girl, go ahead!” The same is true in conversations about Crimea.

Summer is the month of flowers and shopping

Summer is very strange and funny: you walk and walk, the snow has melted, the grass has turned green, bang - and after a couple of days everything has blossomed. But it can snow in any month. Most often the temperature is +15-20 °C, rarely higher. Although it can stay at +30 °C for a week or two.

They rarely bathe - the water does not have time to warm up. The main entertainment for people is fishing or hunting. The heating season is usually interrupted for one month, but officially it all year round, all 365 days. After all, it may be that the temperature below +8 °C will last for five days, and we turn on the heating again.

In winter, the tundra is snow, snow, snow... It seems that there is no life and it is impossible to survive. And in the summer you walk and see clouds of birds, footprints on the shore, someone’s poop - it means someone left them. One day I almost stepped on a partridge. She is such a master of camouflage that I noticed her literally a meter away.

“The heating season is usually interrupted for one month, but officially it is all year round, all 365 days”

And summer is also the time for purchasing, because barges arrive - they are called plavchiki, or floating stores. They bring food and building materials. Everyone goes shopping, even if they don’t really need anything. This is a whole event for the village.

A barge arrives at the village, moored, and throws a gangplank. The music of the 80s and 90s is turned on, blatnyachok-chansoncheg. People buy fruits, vegetables and other products en masse. You can buy anything there: a soft corner, a snowmobile, furniture. If you don’t have anything, you exchange phone numbers and ask: “Dude, bring me a scarlet flower, I really need it.” And they will most likely bring it to you.

Belarus - the country of dreams

From the North I learned great wisdom, which says: there is no such thing as cold weather, only clothes that are not warm enough. I learned to appreciate comfort more in Belarus. Here it seems to you that somewhere the housing is more convenient and the Internet is faster.

But after five years in the north, you understand that in Belarus it’s a sin to complain about anything: the Internet is good compared to Yamal, the prices are more or less, and the climate is just a resort! We have 4 seasons of the year and it's really cool! You fly here from snowy Yamal - and here everything is green, the smell of the forest. Dream country! Is it true.

Why did I leave Yamal? The north is north, but there is nothing to do with children there, there is no development for them, and you yourself gradually degrade. You know that no one will come to take your place - because there is no one in particular. But I can’t study without motivation.

Photo - Pavel Batuev, photo on the main page -Dmitry Chistoprudov

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In addition to stories about the cost of living in different cities world for the column “Like theirs”, we decided to write about prices in different regions Russia for the “Like Ours” section. Costs for food and housing vary markedly from city to city, and while residents middle zone cucumbers are bought for 50 rubles, residents of the Far North can pay one and a half thousand for them.

We start with a story about Salekhard. This is a city located right on Arctic Circle, the capital of the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug, associated with outside world only by airport, ferry across the Ob River and winter ice crossing. In total, 54 thousand people live in Salekhard, and 550 thousand in Yamal. At the same time, there are 700 thousand deer here, this is the largest herd of deer in the world. In summer average temperature air - plus 14 degrees, in winter - minus 23, but it can also reach minus 50. Gas, oil and gold mining companies operate in the region, many of whose employees come to the city for several months on shift. Salekhard resident Nail Khairullin told The Village how much life costs in the Far North.

Living wage

16 thousand rubles

Low income

20–40 thousand rubles

Average income

60 thousand rubles

High income

from 100 thousand rubles

Housing

18–25 thousand rubles per month

Prices in Yamal vary depending on the city, since our territory is very large. In Novy Urengoy and Salekhard, prices are higher than in small villages or Noyabrsk. Renting an ordinary one-room apartment with furniture in Salekhard costs 18–25 thousand rubles. This is the most popular option for those who have just recently moved, say, from Kurgan or from Central Russia. We have a lot of Kurgan residents, many prefer to rent a room, it can be rented for 10 thousand.

If you want to buy an apartment, then the cost of a one-room apartment in brick house in the center - about 3.5–4 million rubles, two-room apartments - 5.5–5.8 million. Bam's one-room apartment can be found for 1.9 million, but this wooden houses, which were built as temporary housing in the middle of the last century.

Transport

25 rubles per trip

There are four bus routes in Salekhard; bus fare costs 25 rubles; starting this summer, they accept bank cards; when paying with them, one trip costs 23 rubles.

Gasoline costs 39.5–41 rubles per liter. When on the winter road (a road that only works in winter. - Ed.) you are traveling from Salekhard to Mainland in snowy villages, they can sell for 50–60 rubles, depending on the minus on the thermometer: the colder it is, the higher the price. In the capital of the district and in the surrounding areas (Labytnangi, Kharp, Aksarka) it is more convenient to travel by crossover. Those who love fishing and hunting naturally prefer jeeps.

And those who transport people between villages buy not a minibus or a gazelle, but a TREKOL. This is a large Russian snow and swamp-going vehicle on impressively sized ultra-low pressure wheels. By the way, TRECOL stands for “TRANSPORT ECOLOGICAL”. Traveling on such transport leaves tourists indelible impressions and causes delight. The seats in the cabin are made in the form of a bench, and you have to ride sideways to the driver. And if the bump is large, and the driver has not reduced the tire pressure, then you will fly up to the ceiling and meet the passenger opposite. No one seems to have started a family this way yet, but many have made friends. By the way, seat belts are not provided in TRECOLs.

Food

about 20 thousand rubles per month

Prices in Salekhard stores are sometimes very steep. There are tomatoes for 1,350 rubles, cherries for 4,200 rubles per kilogram, and a liter of milk for 130 rubles. But this is more of an exception. Basically, our prices are the same as in Europe: eggs for 80–100 rubles, meat for 450 rubles per kilogram, cheese for 550 rubles.

Last year, my wife and I calculated that we could afford food for one winter month it took about 25 thousand for two. In my opinion, this is a lot - maybe we were in depression then, but we definitely didn’t buy caviar with champagne and Camembert.

Twice a year we have a thaw, when the ice on the Ob is still forming or is already melting. Each such period lasts two weeks, during which time the river crossing is closed, so there is almost no perishable food left in the stores. But people are already accustomed to this: everyone understands that until the bridge is built, there are no other options to establish a stable flow of food.

Entertainment

The average bill in local cafes and restaurants is 1,500 rubles per person. We have practically no federal networks. Novy Urengoy was a little more fortunate, and in Salekhard there is only a restaurant operating under the Tyumen franchise “Maxim”. But there are cozy local establishments - the service, of course, still needs to be significantly improved. People love to eat organic fish and dietary reindeer meat. We also eat pork and beef large quantities, but the dumplings made from venison or shokur are very tasty. We bring them as gifts to relatives, but in the form of canned food.

We have cinema, just like on Mainland, 300–350 rubles per session. At the same time, if I’m not mistaken, there are only four professional cinemas in Yamal - one each in Salekhard, Labytnangi, Noyabrsk and Novy Urengoy. Premieres every day, they also sell popcorn.

The Internet cost us 2 thousand rubles a month just a year and a half ago, but now the optical fiber has finally been installed, and the price has dropped slightly - to 1,200–1,400 rubles.

In the summer, city residents love to relax in nature - mountains are visible from almost all the windows of Salekhard residents, so our natural attraction is especially strong. Rafting, mountain climbing, fishing, hunting, mushrooms and berries - we love all this.

We fly to visit each other. To get from Salekhard to Nadym, the distance to which is only 290 kilometers, you need to board a small Bombardier CRJ type plane, spend 50 minutes in it and pay 15 thousand rubles for this pleasure. The same will have to be done if you are going to Noyabrsk or, for example, New Urengoy. A ticket for a flight to Tyumen is 8–9 thousand one way, to Moscow – 11–17 thousand. Taking a family of four on vacation, even to Gelendzhik, is very expensive.